Paris Side Trips Create an Atmosphere of Medieval Times

Beverly Mann

Just an hour's train journey from Paris, I found Auvers-sur-Oise was like walking back into the time of the impressionists. Not much has changed in terms of the architectural landscape. It's no wonder that these tranquil environs captivated Van Gogh and other artists before him. For 10 years, Cezanne and Pissaro, close friends, sat for hours in the light of day by the banks of the River Oise.

Van Gogh's memory is pervasive amid Auvers. Russian sculptor Zadkine created a statue of the artist that overshadows the Parc of Van Gogh adjacent to Auberge Ravoux, a restaurant where upstairs in a sparse attic the famed artist spent his final days. The room remains untouched since Van Gogh's demise. I could almost feel his presence within the walls of the tiny room. Downstairs, I saw a touching film on Van Gogh's last days in Auvers. I then remembered a quote of his that he wrote during the turmoil in his life: "C'est difficil vivre simpliment." (It's so difficult to live simply).

On Rue Emile Bernard lies the grave site of Van Gogh and his beloved brother Theo. A bed of ivy drapes both graves to almost look like one. The words on the gravestone further solidified this feeling: "One heart, one grave."

Though Auvers revels in the remembrances of Van Gogh, the village has an array of other eye-catching sights all within easy walking distance from each other. I strolled further along Rue Emile Bernard and passed an ancient stone house, now the office of tourism, which led me to the Maison Atelier, the studio and home of Daubigny.

A pioneer of impressionism, Daubigny encouraged such artists as Cezanne and Pissarro to paint here. The manicured gardens were most impressive, as were the walls painted with scenery by such known artists as Corot and Daumier. A concert was being set up in the gardens during my walk through, which I was told happens only once a year in June.

I was pleasantly surprised to meet Daniel Raskin, the great-great-grandson of Daubigny's daughter Cecile. Raskin has lived in this house for more than 80 years now. It is quite evident that he and his wife receive such pleasure in having visitors come to their home.

Afterward, I sauntered down Rue de Lery to a most unusual locale, the Absinthe Museum. Here was showcased memorabilia and the history of the forbidden muse or green fairy drink that influenced society and artists Monet, Degas, Lautrec and Van Gogh. Absinthe became very popular in 1860s, but was prohibited in 1915 because of its potent effect. The absinthe spoon that Francis Ford Coppola borrowed for his film "Dracula" was among the many antiques displayed. I was told that absinthe was not just intoxicating but an elixir used for medicinal uses. However, the drink's effects still conjure a mystical and mysterious allure.

I stopped for lunch in the garden of the delightful La Guinguette du Chateau restaurant where I enjoyed a foie gras salad that just melted in my mouth. This was followed by a fresh fish and vegetable dish and punctuated with a tri-colored sorbet. The three-course lunch was a great deal, only 20 euros, or $24.

For a day's visit, I definitely would suggest taking a tour to help navigate through some winding streets, though the city map is quite detailed and easy to follow. However, I could just as easily enjoy getting lost in time meandering through the quiet streets amid the ancient stone buildings and pastoral landscape. I really felt the presence of the impressionists at every turn and understood why these painters and writers would escape from the big city of Paris to develop their art form in Auvers.

Further from Paris, approximately one hour and 20 minutes in the opposite direction than Auvers, I arrived at my next side trip at the fortified medieval village of Provins. I left Gare de l'Est at 10:15 a.m. and arrived at 11:34 a.m., glad that I was able to utilize my Eurail pass on this nonstop journey.

In the 12^th and 13^th centuries, the earls of Champagne established Provins as a major trade center with the fairs of Champagne. It was once France's fifth-ranking city and the crossroads of 11 commercial routes. Today, the remains of the times are seen amid the 150 vaulted cellars, once used for storing goods, dispersed among the ancient merchant stone dwellings. Provins remains one of the few places in France that can claim more than 50 listed monuments with historical value. The small village has also been called Little Venice because of the two rivers that flow through it. At one time there were 100 wells throughout Provins. The setting is like out of a fairy tale. I could almost envision the feudal lords, knights and peasants roaming these cobblestone streets.

I started my journey at the ramparts at Porte Saint Jean. The entrance gate with its two almond-shaped towers is directly opposite the office of tourism. Unfortunately, only part of the three miles of city walls is still standing.

A fun way to explore enchanting Provins is via the 45-minute Tourist Train, which can be picked up by the entrance to the office of tourism or along several of the stops on the way through major monuments and sites of the Old Town. Tickets cost $6 for an entire day of getting on and off.

The Provins Pass, purchased at the office, will reduce a visitor's entrance fee to such major attractions as Caesar's Tower, a symbol of the 12^th century power of the courts of Champagne. This site was utilized both as a watchtower and a prison, and now serves as a great panoramic viewpoint of the town for visitors.

One of the first places of interest seen by the train or by foot down the Rue St. Jean is the Tithe Barn with its vaulted cellars. Rented by merchants in the 1200s when they came to town to sell their wares during the fairs in spring and autumn, the Barn portrays a re-enactment of the times. As I toured upstairs, I encountered models dressed in medieval attire representing the money changer and banker at tables collecting the high taxes, the letter writer who drew up the bills of exchange, the stone cutters, the quarrymen, parchment maker and woolen cloth maker.

Opposite the Tithe Barn, I lunched at Le Table Saint Jean and enjoyed traditional medieval fare for $20 for a three-course meal, which included a delectable homemade fois gras.

Afterward, I visited the extensive network of underground galleries, where a tour guide took us with flashlight in hand underneath the town's general hospital. Our guide shed her light on the inscriptions and graffiti on the walls from the 1700s written by the Freemasons during their secret meetings underground. It is still a mystery, though, as to how these galleries were actually used - whether they were hiding places or used for religious purposes.

Just outside the Old Town, at the train's final stop, is the more modern-day Provins of the 18^th and 19^th centuries. I found the Garnier Gardens, named after a rich benefactor and once owned by a teaching order of nuns, to be a lovely respite from my day's walk. Also in the newer part of the village I discovered the Saint-Agoul Church, one of the earliest trade centers in Provins.

The grand finale of my stay in Provins was the spectacular eagle show, also featuring some other birds of prey (vultures and falcons). A dramatic array of 80 birds is set free to perform a wild aerial show representing the history of falconry, with performers dressed in period costumes. The only drawback is that it's all in French, but the visual presentation speaks for itself.

Though the city's prosperity declined at the beginning of the 14^th century with the modification of trade routes, wars and the plague, five years ago the town regained its luster and charm through the preservation of its historic landmarks.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: Provins: Take the train from Gare de l' Est direct to Provins. You can use your Eurail Pass.

Auvers-sur-Oise: You must go upstairs to the Train de Banlieue sign at Gare du Nord in Paris. You will change trains at Valmondois to Auvers. On Sundays and bank holidays between May 1 and Sept. 24 there are direct trains to Auvers.

Contacts: Office of Tourism de Provins, 33 1-6460 2626 or www.provins.net.

Office of Tourism Auvers, Rue de la Sansonne, 95430 Auvers-sur-Oise, e-mail: otsi.auvers@wanadoo.fr.

Beverly Mann is a freelance travel writer.

© Copley News Service