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''The Wells'' still draw a crowd, without the royal-era rules

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  6. ''The Wells'' still draw a crowd, without the royal-era rules

published October 09, 2006

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Henry wasn't the first royal to fall for the charms of the Kentish countryside, but he is probably the most famous. He made Leeds Castle his palace and wooed Anne Boleyn at nearby Hever Castle. Both have gorgeous gardens, which seem to be a requisite for Kent's stately homes, but more of that later.

Almost a century later, a young nobleman at the court of James I accidentally discovered what is now one of Kent's most delightful cities.


One day in 1606, Dudley Lord North was riding back to London from revelries at a Kentish castle, feeling rather the worse for wear, when he noticed a spring bubbling with rust-colored water. It reminded him of the therapeutic waters of the Belgian resort town of Spa, so he stopped for a drink. Feeling miraculously revived, he rode on to London, bringing news of the hangover cure he had discovered.

Soon royals and gentry traveled to Kent for the restorative iron-rich waters of the Chalybeate Spring. Queen Henrietta Maria came for six weeks in 1629. Charles II and Queen Catherine followed in the 1660s. Shops and lodgings, taverns and gaming houses sprang up along the common by the spring, later to be linked by a covered colonnade that became the social center of the town. In 1698 the future Queen Anne watched her young son fall in the muddy streets under the colonnade and was so upset she gave the town 100 pounds to pave it, at the time a princessly sum. When she came back the next year, the street was still unpaved and she angrily vowed never to return to Tunbridge Wells. She never did.

Eventually the colonnade was paved with square ceramic tiles, which gave the area its name, The Pantiles. It's still the heart of the town, and the center of festivities celebrating Tunbridge Wells' 400th anniversary this year.

By the 18th century, Tunbridge Wells rivaled Bath as a spa town. Beau Nash, Bath's famous fashion leader, became "Master of Ceremonies" for Tunbridge Wells, and the gentry soon split their time between the two fashionable spas. Days usually began at the northern end of The Pantiles with a glass of restorative spring water, then a promenade following strict social rules laid down by Beau Nash: the gentry on the "upper walks" of the colonnade, everyone else on the "lower walks." A stop to worship at the nearby church of King Charles the Martyr, another at a coffee house for some gossip, then perhaps a bit of gambling rounded out the day's activities before the evening's dancing, musicals or grand ball.

"The Wells" has long drawn royals, writers and well-heeled Londoners, among them Samuel Pepys, Daniel Defoe and William Makepeace Thackeray. As a young princess, Queen Victoria made frequent visits. In honor of its aristocratic connections, Victoria's son, Edward VII, granted the town its "Royal" prefix in 1909, one of only two so honored in England.

Still popularly called just Tunbridge Wells, today visitors come to see the old town; the Chalybeate Spring, where costumed dippers serve therapeutic water from Easter to September; Pink Alley, former home to gambling houses and ladies of the night; and the Church of Charles the Martyr, where Queen Victoria worshiped. They browse the antique shops and boutiques of The Pantiles, relax at its outdoor cafes and enjoy the occasional open-air band and evening jazz concerts. And, of course, they promenade, unencumbered by Beau Nash's rules.

Tunbridge Wells is also a splendid hub from which to visit those famous gardens of Kent. Most are within an hour's drive, and often much less.

- Groombridge Place and Enchanted Forest. The name may not be familiar, but if you saw "Pride & Prejudice," you'll recognize the lovely brick house as the Bennett home. The interior isn't open to the public, but the grounds are, including the traditional 17th century walled gardens, and an enchanted forest with strange plants and unusual animals for children. Groombridge Place, Groombridge Hill, Groombridge, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 01892 861444, www.groombridge.co.uk, open March 18-Nov. 4, daily 10-5:30.

- Goodnestone Park Gardens. Come for 15 acres of walled kitchen and woodland gardens, arboretum, parterre and terraces and an 18th century house that inspired Jane Austen to write "Pride and Prejudice" after one of her frequent stays there. Goodnestone Park, near Wingham, phone: 01304 840107, www.goodnestoneparkgardens.co.uk, open March 27- Oct. 6, Wednesday-Saturday 11-5, Sundays, noon-5.

- Penshurst Place and Gardens. This medieval manor house with a Baron's Hall, the ancestral home of the well-known Sidney family for 450 years, is famous for its peony border, roses, Italian garden and 11 acres of walled Tudor gardens whose hedges take two men six weeks to trim. Penshurst Place, Penshurst, phone: 01892 870307, www.penshurstplace.com, open daily March 25-Oct. 29; grounds, 10:30-6, house, noon-4.

- Sissinghurst Castle Garden. Created in the 1930s by Vita Sackville-West and her husband, Harold Nicolson, this is a series of small, romantic, enclosed gardens filled with colorful flowers set around what's left of a large Elizabethan house. Best known are the Rose, White and Cottage Gardens, and Lime Walk. The library and Vita Sackville-West's study are also open. Sissinghurst Castle Garden, Biddenden Road, Sissinghurst, phone 01580 710701, www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sissinghurst, open Friday-Tuesday, March 18-Oct. 29, 11-6:30.

- Chartwell. History buffs may be more interested in Winston Churchill's paintings, photographs and memorabilia at his long-time family home, but gardeners will appreciate the rose and water gardens the Churchills commissioned, and the country walks with views over the broad, fertile valley called the Weald of Kent. Chartwell, Mapleton Road, Westerham, phone 01732 868381, www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chartwell, open Wednesday-Sunday, plus Tuesdays in summer, March 25-Oct. 29, 11-5.

- Hever Castle and Gardens. A romantic, moated castle once the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, its 30 acres of classical gardens and natural landscapes are a 20th century addition. Its centerpiece is the Italian garden, designed to showcase William Waldorf Astor's collection of Italian sculpture. Ponds, cascades, fountains and a 35-acre lake dot the gardens, which also have an adventure playground and shrub and water mazes for children. Hever Castle and Gardens, Edenbridge, phone: 01732 865224, www.hevercastle.co.uk, open daily March 1-Nov. 30, gardens 11-6, house noon-6, in November until 4:30.

- Leeds Castle. Perhaps it's the moated compound surrounded by 500 acres of rolling parkland, or the black swans that glide across the Great Lake, an aviary for exotic birds, or the charm of the cottage garden, but Leeds really is one of England's loveliest castles, as it likes to call itself. Henry VIII turned a Norman fortress into a castle fit for 300 years of royal residence, and its last private owner, Lady Baillie, restored the Tudor furnishings of the "Gloriette" and entertained 20th century royalty, politicians and entertainers in her own intimate castle rooms. Leeds Castle, Maidstone, phone: 01622 765400, www.leeds-castle.com; open daily 10-7 April through Oct., 10-3:30 November through March.

SIDEBAR

Suggested hotels

Hotel du Vin, Crescent Road, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 011-44-1892-526455, fax: 011-44-1892-512044, www.hotelduvin.com. Modern decor and wine memorabilia in a stylish, 34-room Georgian town house hotel with gardens and a terrace, much changed since Queen Victoria stayed as a girl. Doubles from $167.

The Spa Hotel, Mount Ephraim, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 011-44-1892-520331, fax: 011-44-1892-510575, www.spahotel.co.uk. Country mansion in 14 acres of parkland with 69 rooms and a small spa. Doubles from $245.

The Royal Wells Hotel, Mount Ephraim, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone 011-44-1892-511188, fax: 011-44-1892-511908, www.royalwells.co.uk. A historic, 25-room Victorian hotel near the town center, with a major refurbishment. Doubles from $175.

Blundeston, Eden Road, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 011-44-1892-513030, fax: 011-44-1892-540255. Two rooms in a quiet city center B&B with swimming pool near the historic Pantiles, shopping and restaurants. Doubles from $108, including breakfast.

Ash Tree Cottage, 7 Eden Rd., Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 011-44-1892-541317, fax: 011-44-1892-616770, e-mail rogersashtree@excite.com. Two rooms in an attractive B&B in a quiet area near High Street and the Pantiles. Doubles from $105, including breakfast.

Studley Cottage, Bishops Down, Park Road, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 011-44-1892-539854. Two rooms in a Victorian coach house B&B in a quiet conservation area walking distance from town center. Double, $102, including full breakfast.

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS

Bistro, Hotel du Vin, Crescent Road, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone 01892-526455. Dark woods, light walls and pretty outdoor terrace for rabbit and duck roulade; cassoulet; braised lamb shank; and rhubarb and apple crumble, and 30 wines by the glass. Starters, $12; most mains, $25; desserts, $12.

Thackeray's, 85 London Rd., Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone 01892-511921. Once home to William Makepeace Thackeray, the spare white walls and modern paintings belie the building's 17th century origins. Signature dishes of the Michelin-starred restaurant include trio of duck foie gras, pan-fried sea scallops, roast Kentish lamb and raspberry souffle. Starters $16-$26, mains $33-$39, desserts $16; five-course tasting menu, $102.

Le Petit Blanc, Five Ways, Lime Hill Road, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 01892-559170. One of the Raymond Blanc chain serving traditional brasserie fare: warm potato salad, Alsace bacon and poached egg; pan-fried gnocchi with wild mushrooms and spinach; moules a la mariniere; roast breast of chicken with truffled celeriac puree; mixed berry and almond crumble; banana and pecan toffee pudding. Starters, $6-$13; mains, $16-$32; desserts, $6-$10.

The Spotted Dog, Smarts Hill, Penshurst, phone: 01892-870253. A cozy country gastropub near Penshurst Place for smoked trout, steak and ale pie, and poached salmon with ginger noodles. Starters about $10, mains $16-$21, desserts, $9.

The Hare, Langton Road, Langton Green, Royal Tunbridge Wells, phone: 01892-862419. A friendly, century-old village pub serving mussels, oysters, steaks, chops, ploughman's and treacle tart. Starters $8-$16; mains, $13-$32; desserts $7-$12.

Royal Wells Brasserie, The Royal Wells Hotel, Mount Ephraim, Royal Tunbridge Wells, 01892-511188. Menu includes spring onion and pea risotto; calf's liver; braised red cabbage; and sticky toffee pudding. Starters, $7-$10; mains, $14-$24; desserts, $7- $9.

IF YOU GO

One-hour guided walking tours of Tunbridge Wells, called Pleasant Promenades, leave from the Tourist Information Centre in The Pantiles every Thursday and Saturday at 11:30 am. You can also pick up a booklet, "Promenade, Walking Through History," for a town walk on your own.

Getting there: Maxjet, a new, all-business-class airline, flies daily except Saturday between New York (JFK) and London (Stansted), and starting March 15 between Washington, D.C., (Dulles) and London (Stansted) daily except Thursday and Saturday. One-way fares start at $679 from New York and $806 from Washington, www.maxjet.com. Stansted Express makes the 45-minute trip between the airport and London's Liverpool Station every 15 minutes.

London is about an hour by train, and some visitors beat the high price of London hotels by commuting from Tunbridge Wells.

For more information contact VisitBritain at 800-462-2748, e-mail travelinfo@visitbritain.org, Web site www.visitbritain.com/usa.

Joan Scobey is a freelance travel writer.

© Copley News Service
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  6. ''The Wells'' still draw a crowd, without the royal-era rules

published October 09, 2006

( 14 votes, average: 4.4 out of 5)
What do you think about this article? Rate it using the stars above and let us know what you think in the comments below.

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