An afternoon shower moved in and people took shelter in the botanical gardens' orchid house. I passed the time chatting with a lady who had just returned from the Pantanal with International Expedition. After expressing my amazement at the wildlife in Rio, Sarah, from Maryland, countered with, "You ought to go to the Pantanal."
When we arrived at Refugio Ecological Caiman, a giant anteater came moseying around the building. They are not easy to find, and it found us. And the first time I saw a hyacinth macaw I was astounded by the iridescence color. I saw so many that it is hard to believe they are endangered.
To experience more of Brazil's wildness, I joined International Expedition's three-day add-on trip in search of the golden lion tamarin, one of the world's most endangered species. A spectacular two-hour drive took us to Poco das Antas Biological Reserve, one of the few places to see tamarins in the wild. Our guide led us on a short walk to a line of trees where we stood quietly, listening for the telltale rustling in the trees.
Sure enough, the tamarins had arrived, their long, glowing, golden fur glistening with droplets of rain. For over an hour I watched them eat, groom each other and leap from tree to tree. National Zoo Scientists and collaborators in Brazil introduced zoo-born golden lion tamarins into the forests, primarily onto private lands where the owners have kept the forest intact, providing the necessary habitat for sustainability. During the 35-year project, the tamarin population in Brazil's Atlantic Coastal Forest rose from 200 to 1,500.
Before returning to Rio, we went on a bird-watching hike in Serra dos Orgaos Park and got lucky. We spotted a black and gold cotinga, a rare bird endemic to the Atlantic rain forest park. Another wild experience.
The Tropical Hotel is approved by the Brazilian environmental agency, IBAMA, to accept rescued animals. I arrived at the zoo nestled under the trees behind the hotel just as the truck bearing the jaguar arrived. The crate was propped up at the opening of the newly built jaguar home. With the hotel veterinarian in charge, we waited in heightened anticipation for the jaguar to awaken from his induced sleep.
Finally a spotted head appeared. What a magnificent creature. Slowly and groggily the jaguar crawled out of the crate into his new home, staggered over to a corner, and went back to sleep. When I checked an hour later he was on the prowl inspecting his new home. From Manaus, a 30-minute boat ride took me to Eco Park Lodge, my jungle home for a couple of days. Located on a tributary of the Rio Negro, Eco Park is just one of many jungle lodges in the Brazilian Amazon. After a lunch that was eyed covetously by a scarlet macaw, I met Iury, my guide, and set out on a nature hike.
The trained eye of Iury spotted signs of nature that I would have missed. Each critter and every plant had special significance to Iury. If he needed water, he knew what vine to cut to find plenty of fresh water. Iury pointed out tree frogs, lizards, birds and other wildlife my untrained eyes missed. Amazed at his vast knowledge, I asked, "Where did you learn all this?"
That evening Iury took me on a caiman spotting adventure. In a small wooden boat we poled through the mangrove and saw only a few caiman. Gliding under the trees, with the moonlight dappling the black water, the constant cric-cric of the frogs, and an occasional buzz of an insect, it was a surreal experience.
"Where are all the mosquitoes?" I asked.
"This is the Rio Negro, the Black River, and there are very few mosquitoes here. The leaching of tannin from the decaying leaves causes the black color and makes it acidic. Black water is some of the cleanest water in the world. The mosquitoes don't like it."
Tania G., the manager at the Holiday Inn, told us, "I lived in Praia do Forte where the TAMAR Project conducts research and protects the endangered sea turtles. It is just a few miles from Salvador. In fact, I adopted a baby turtle and released it into the ocean."
The release project came about because the turtle population was rapidly declining due to the selective killing of the females as they came ashore to lay their eggs. The project has successfully increased the turtle population. I was sorry I missed the prime release time, which is January and February. It will give me another excuse to visit wild Brazil.
It is easy to be wild about Brazil. The wildlife can be found everywhere - on the savanna, along the coast, in the rain forest and even in the cities. To be able to see so many animals and birds in one country, especially those on the endangered list, is an amazing and wild experience.
IF YOU GO
Brazil Tourist Office: www.braziltour.com, (800) 7-BRAZIL.
International Travel: www.ietravel.com, (800) 633-4734.
EcoAdventures: www.EcoAdventures.com, (800) 326-5025.
TAMAR Turtle Project: www.projetotamar.org.br.
Bahia Adventure: www.bahiaadventure.com/home_ing.htm
Sandra Scott is a freelance travel writer.
© Copley News Service
