We could be nowhere else but Switzerland.
We were at the 24th annual Cully Jazz Festival, a nine-day springtime event in a historic village on Lake Geneva in Switzerland. This has to be one of the coolest jazz festivals on the planet because in addition to attending these main-stage concerts under the tent, patrons wander the winding streets of this charming town to hear jazz in the intimate settings of eight private caveaux (wine cellars essentially) and four local cafes.
Every experience we encountered in this western corner of Switzerland, a place of spectacular scenery, ran like its fabled clockwork. We based ourselves in Lausanne, a lovely city of just 120,000 on Lake Geneva that sits smack in the middle of Europe. A train from here to Paris or Milan, for example, can take just about four hours.
Since the 12th century, when the Romans traveled to Paris, they passed right through this centrally located village, leaving ancient ruins as well as age-old traditions, notably winemaking.
This pastoral region on the shores of Lake Geneva, the Lavaux area, is such an important winemaking center that it is expected soon to be designated historically and culturally important by UNESCO.
We visited one of these wineries, Domaine du Daley, whose lands have been vineyards since 1392. Cyril Severin, resident winemaker, told us that this terrain is so steep, some harvesting must be done by helicopter. Cyril's grandfather came here in 1934 to work in the vineyards, which were held by the Catholic Church from 1392 until 1937. Cyril's father, M. Severin Marcel, now owns the winery. He was born at the domain and today is head of the largest chain of pharmacies in Switzerland. "He wanted to come back," Cyril said.
As part of its recent renovations last year, the Beau Rivage unveiled its Cinq Mondes Spa, the first of its kind in Switzerland, incorporating health and beauty rituals from Japan, India, North Africa, China and Bali. The most amazing treatment I indulged in was the Royal Ritual from Siam, offering a 20-minute soak in a Japanese wooden tub with floating rose petals, a 20-minute papaya puree full-body scrub, and a 50-minute Balinese massage. Therapist Walid's magic fingers somehow made me feel younger, lighter and lovelier.
One morning we wandered into town to watch a famous cuckoo clock perform its hourly show. On Saturdays, Lausanne's various squares house colorful farmers markets. Off Place St. Francois, we wandered into the Cafe Romand, a local favorite since 1951, for traditional cheese fondue.
"The Swiss eat more chocolate per head than any other nation," Dan Durig told us, while showing off his delectable chocolate eggs filled with bon-bons that were works of art created for Easter. Another reason to go.
The next day we walked along the gorgeous boardwalk that fronts Lake Geneva for miles, through one charming village after another. In Lutry, we stopped for another traditional lunch at the tiny Cafe de la Poste, known for its perch and pommes de terre. The fish came from the lake, served as tiny pan-fried fillets with a lovely piquant tartar sauce that worked equally well on the crispy French fries.
Leisurely strolling among the marvelous plane trees and spring tulips on the boardwalk, we ogled at mansions along the shore until we came upon the Musee Olympique, right next door to the Beau Rivage Palace.
Since 1915, Lausanne has been the headquarters of the International Olympic Committee. In 1993, it opened the Olympic Museum, named best museum in Europe in 1995. From the remarkable ancient artifacts including Greek coins and athletic vessels of 2,000 years ago to the present-day bobsleds and ice skating costumes, the museum is a tribute to the legacy of sportsmanship.
By far the most moving sight here, though, was the dungeon and prison where Bonivard, prior of St. Victor's in Geneva, was chained in 1532 to a pillar for four years because he promoted Geneva's independence from the Counts of Savoy. Bonivard was freed in 1536 by the Swiss, and was later immortalized by the poet Lord Byron.
The lake ferry back to Lausanne gave us a splendid view of those charming villages, the steep terrain of the wine country and the magnificent Alps on the French side of Lake Geneva.
Over a delectable Italian dinner at the L'Accademia, we raised our glasses of crisp Swiss Chasselas to the many worldly facets of Lausanne, since we were right in the heart of Europe.
IF YOU GO
Getting there: We flew from New York to Geneva via Swiss International Air Lines, the national carrier of Switzerland. North American gateways include Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New York and Montreal. For more information, log on to www.swiss.com or call 877-FLY SWISS.
Staying there: Beau Rivage Palace, CH 1000, Lausanne 6, Switzerland. Phone 41 21 613 33 33; fax 41 21 613 33 34; www.brp.ch.
Daily room rates range from $357 to $2,846, depending on room size and location. For various packages, check the Web site.
Priscilla Lister is a freelance travel writer.
© Copley News Service
