Castles and cobblestone streets lure travelers to Slovenia

Robert Selwitz

It's also one of the most fortunate beneficiaries of the collapse of communism. As the northernmost part of former Yugoslavia, it was not deemed worth fighting for by Serbian leader Slobodan Milosevic. That's why, following a short fight in 1991, Slovenia was allowed to leave Yugoslavia. That meant that while Serbia, Croatia and Bosnia were embroiled in the 1990s' deadliest conflict, Slovenia was free to become what it long desired to be: an independent nation enjoying the Western European lifestyle it had long enjoyed - before 73 years within royal and communist Yugoslavia - as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Almost everyone's first stop in the country is Ljubljana. On a site occupied since Roman times, Slovenia's capital today is a soothing, culturally rich center full of fascinating sights, good food, music and night life. It exudes calm hedonism that's particularly evident on warm spring, summer and fall evenings. Everyone strolls along the Ljublanica River, wanders the city's historic quarter and sips coffee and spirits at outdoor cafes lining the waterway.

Presernov trg (Preseren Square) is the heart of the old city. Here you'll find three adjacent bridges (the first built for vehicles, the others for pedestrian crossings) that are the city's most famous landmarks. Also prominent is the pink, 17th century Franciscan Church of the Annunciation and the statue of France Preseren, the 19th century poet who is the nation's most famous writer. Nearby is the extremely helpful tourist information center.

The square is also the take-off point for hourly trams that climb up to Ljubljana Castle, which dominates city overviews. Definitely worth a look, the exterior is more impressive than anything inside its walls. Some remnants of its earliest days do remain, including a chapel and dungeon. But most of its space is now used for art presentations or public performances in the courtyard.

Part of the enjoyment of visiting the castle is passing through the city's oldest sector. Starting at the river, it extends partway up the surrounding hillsides. If you do take the tram up, descend the cobblestone streets by foot, walking slowly past plenty of baroque and medieval structures. You can't get lost if you keep heading downhill, since level ground puts you at, or near, the main square.

Just two short blocks from the triple bridges is a fine source of Slovenian cuisine, Gostilna Zlata Ribica (Golden Fish). In addition to its namesake, particularly pleasing specialties include garlic soup and venison wrapped in bacon. Dinner for two with wine runs around $65. Also noteworthy is the beautifully restored, 15th century town hall, whose courtyards provide a fine setting for revolving exhibitions of modern art, particularly sculpture. And, back across the river, stroll through Kongresni trg (Congress Square), home of the well-regarded Slovene Philharmonic.

As for places to stay, consider the Hotel Slon. It is moderately priced and superbly located just a few minutes' walk from Preseren Square. While prices in Slovenia are quite similar to those in the United States or Western Europe, one bargain does remain: tickets to ride on Slovenia's clean and efficient inter-city bus network. While crisscrossing the country reaching virtually every community, these busses make possible easy and affordable day trips, particularly to a number of historic spots.

For example, less than $4 will get you to Skofja Loka, 40 minutes from Ljubljana. Hovered over by a castle, the old town features charming, twisting streets, a medieval bridge over rushing waters and centuries-old structures with painted facades. The castle itself, a middling climb above, is most impressive, and not just for its imposing walls. It houses an extraordinary ethnographic museum, including a huge mix of household implements, farm and industrial tools, weapons and coat of arms, ceramics and World War II pictures depicting town life under German occupation.

Just a 10-minute bus ride away is Kranj, a modern city with a well-preserved old sector. Highlights include the France Preseren Museum, in a home where he lived for three years; and the Gorenjska Museum in a medieval house that covers centuries of folk art, including exquisite painted furniture and other domestic goods. Another reachable-by-bus link to the past is Radovlica, a major 15th-16th century trading town that today offers an impressive collection of centuries-old structures. Its other prime draw is its beekeeping museum, housed in a baroque manor house.

For a complete change of pace, move onto Bled, less than two hours from Ljubljana. Long a favorite of Europeans in search of fine hiking, biking, skiing, tobogganing, water sports and boating, the town itself offers a peaceful respite for those who just want to relax and enjoy stunning views, including mountains that are snow-capped yearlong. Bled's most famous sight is the 16th century Church of the Assumption atop an island in the middle of the lake. It's reachable by either joining one of the boatloads of travelers who are poled, gondola style, from the town to the island and back. Or you can hire a rowboat and visit the island on your own.

Also noteworthy is Bled Castle, accessible by tourist trams or via a particularly strenuous hike. Most feel the stunning lake views are well worth the effort.

Just a two-and-a-half-hour bus ride southwest of Ljubljana is Piran, the charming seacoast town that's the heart of Slovenia's 20-mile-long Adriatic coastline, scrunched between Italy and Croatia. Italian influence is everywhere, and Italians flock to Piran to stroll through medieval streets, sail from its harbor and enjoy extraordinary food. Widely regarded as Piran's best restaurant is Cafe Neptun, one block from the waterfront. Extraordinary mussels, clams, shrimp soup, gnocchi with cheese sauce, and sea bass are among its highlights. Do make reservations, because Cafe Neptun is hugely and justifiably popular.

North of Piran you'll find Izola, another Italian-influenced medieval town filled with seafood restaurants. Izola, like Piran, is a take-off point for warm-weather catamaran services linking Slovenia with Venice. These smooth and fast powerboats skim across the Adriatic in just under three hours. Piran and Izola are also close to Trieste. That makes a day-trip excursion to the Italian port city quite feasible.

However, most sojourners to Slovenia arrive first in Ljubljana. Long a major rail center with direct services links to Austria and Italy, today a rising tide of visitors enter the country via often-inexpensive, two-hour, daily EasyJet flights from London's Stansted Airport.

IF YOU GO

Slovenia Tourism Authority: call (954) 491-0112 or visit www.slovenia-tourism.si.

EasyJet: visit www.easyjet.com.

Hotel Slon, Ljubljana: visit www.hotelslon.com.

Restaurants: Ljubljana - Gostilna Zlata Ribica (Golden Fish) at Cankarjevo nabrezje 5-7. Piran - Cafe Neptun, Zupanclceva 7, phone 00386 5 67 34 111.

Robert Selwitz is a freelance travel writer.