Spain is celebrating the anniversary of the book that inspired those timeless sentiments, "Don Quixote," and author Cervantes. Published 400 years ago in 1605, "Don Quixote" has had a healthy shelf life, especially if you consider the play - "Man of La Mancha" continues to be performed on stages from high school to summer stock to Broadway.
Part of the commemoration is a newly designated, 620-mile Route of Don Quixote. All or segments of the route can be followed with special maps indicating the stops. The area lies within the Castile-La Mancha region in the heart of Spain. Some stops are related to the author, while others are directly linked to Don Quixote. I visited in May to get an overview.
After flying into Madrid, we drove immediately to Toledo, where our visit officially began. Toledo, declared a World Heritage City by UNESCO in 1987, can keep you occupied for days.
Art lovers should see the attractions in Toledo associated with El Greco. Depending on the time of day, lines can form to see his masterpiece "The Burial of the Count Orgaz," created in 1586. It's a mesmerizing creation often analyzed by art experts. Our guide spent 20 minutes pointing out all the unusual aspects.
South of Toledo we silently pondered the whitewashed windmills fictional Don Quixote believed were enormous giants. While you can see traditional windmills on various hilltops, such as Campo de Criptana, I found Consuegra more appealing. It has a photogenic ruined castle and windmills clustered together, hard to beat! From atop the castle walls, the open plains of La Mancha stretched in all directions.
Our quest took us to the inn where Don Quixote was "knighted." Talk about standing the test of time: The inn with its characteristic open courtyard is still catering to travelers. Located in Puerto Lapice, the village is a must-see on the Route of Don Quixote. Though I didn't buy any, the shops in Puerto Lapice are famous for their saffron.
On our way to Cuenca we stopped first at the ancient Roman site of Segobriga, where kids on a field trip were staging a play at the amphitheater. Dressed in togas made from worn bedsheets and safety pins, they held tight to their scripts and shouted halting dialogue to the audience. I couldn't understand a word, but it was amusing to see them make the wholehearted effort.
As if on cue, a shepherd and herd of sheep passed near the amphitheater, bringing to mind Quixote's evil army. An attentive sheepdog followed behind, earning his supper. Time marches slowly in Castile-La Mancha.
Hilly Old Town Cuenca can be a challenge for those not accustomed to cobbled streets and steep staircases, but it's worth the effort. Our stay was at a stunning parador; formerly the Convent of San Pablo, built in the 16th century. The structure overlooks a gorge and several of the hanging houses were directly across the divide. A hanging pedestrian bridge connects the two.
The paradors of Spain make creative re-use of historic buildings, where you can immerse yourself in Spanish culture, even when sleeping.
We made another stop at Medrano Cave in Argamasilla de Alba, where author Cervantes was briefly held prisoner. It was quiet in midafternoon. In fact, all the villages we visited were exceptionally quiet. Rough-cut steps lead down to the place where legend says Cervantes began writing the adventures of Don Quixote. At least he used his incarceration time wisely.
Almagro is known for lace-making. In case you have any doubt about its importance, the city has erected a statue of a lace-maker working her pins and spools. In the evening a "lady of a certain age" came to the parador lobby to create lace. I surrendered to temptation and bought a small piece.
The food of Castile-La Mancha favors game meats, including partridge and hare, among others. A tasty product from the region is a cheese called manchego. Lunches and dinners are long by American standards and the wine flows, especially at dinner, which lasts well into the night.
We sampled a centuries-old dish called pain and suffering, mentioned in "Don Quixote." There are different versions of how this meal got its odd name, how the dish is prepared and even variations of the name itself. Everyone seems to agree early recipes contained eggs and brains. Though I downed a few bites, I can't say pain and suffering is a dish I'd attempt at home.
The Route of Don Quixote merges fiction and reality, adding a new dimension to travel in Spain. If you've seen "Man of La Mancha" (and who hasn't), you may find yourself singing along the way.
And the world will be better for this. That one man, scorned and covered with scars, still strove, with his last ounce of courage, to reach the unreachable stars.
Now where are those tissues?
IF YOU GO
For more travel information on Spain, click on www.okspain.org.
Additional information on paradors can be found at: www.paradors.net.
For the Don Quixote anniversary and route click on www.donquijotedelamancha2005.com.
Kathryn Lemmon is a freelance travel writer.
