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When the weather breaks, head for Crater Lake

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published April 17, 2006

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( 7 votes, average: 4.5 out of 5)
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A lake? A lake? I won't fault the skeptics. But Crater is not just any lake, it is the deepest of deep, the bluest of blue, the clearest of clear, and surely one of the more spectacular places on Earth. But don't take my word for it. Listen to ranger Dave Grimes.

Grimes entitles his peppy talk "The Top Ten Things that Make Crater Lake Anything But Ordinary." Some examples: At nearly 2,000 feet, it is the deepest body of water in the United States and the seventh such in the world. Stack the Eiffel Tower, Washington Monument and Statue of Liberty atop each other, submerge them, and you won't see the torch. No lake in the world is clear as far down. Drop your camera in, Grimes jokes, and you can watch it fall for 143 feet. Trudge the volcanic shores that cradle the lake, and you'll find rocks that float (they're pumice). But you'll likely have to dig for them; 44 feet of snowfall, September into June, in a typical year. If you and every other individual on the planet showed up with a gallon jug, each of you could fill it 700 times before emptying the lake.


Which would be a really terrible idea.

If the spectacular scenery draws people here to southwestern Oregon, the unexpected isolation is the bonus. There are no TVs or phones in lodge or motel rooms. Cell phones don't work. You can't even buy a newspaper, since no carrier is willing to make the daily delivery from Klamath Falls, 60 winding, uphill miles away. There are radios for the information-obsessed, and the papers visitors carry in with them tend to get passed around. But it doesn't take long to adjust to presence in a place apart, pristine in water and air, unspoiled by worldly worries.

So what do you do when you can't watch Fox or chat up your friends?

Most of the park's half a million yearly visitors come in for the day and drive the 33-mile Rim Road that circles the lake. A few scenic pullouts later, they're gone before sunset, says head ranger Dave Brennan. Those who come in July or August, as do the vast majority, may not feel quite as away from it at all as we did in mid-September, particularly if their car is their constant companion. Brennan advises turning off Rim Road and exploring some of the 90 miles of trails on foot.

For many, the main activity seemed to be standing and looking or sitting and looking. Since nighttime temperatures fell below freezing, I was delighted and amazed by the parade of hardy lodge guests, dragging blankets to the deck for early morning coffee with a view or a nightcap under the stars.

And that's another thing about Crater Lake, which is not really a crater but a caldera, indicating a two-step process in its creation 7,700 years ago. First the volcano exploded, sending a column of ash 30 miles into the sky and dumping lava over what later became eight states and part of Canada. Scientists say the eruption was the equivalent of 42 Mount St. Helens. Then the mountain imploded, falling thousands of feet to create a lava-sealed basin that filled with rain and snow. Hence the coffee sipper perched on the volcanic rim is looking down on a lake 1,000 feet below him, while the stargazer sees only sky and mountain shadows.

I am not a sitting-and-looking sort of person. My husband and I spent a glorious morning hiking the trail to the top of Watchman Peak, where we were rewarded with a 360-degree perspective and a peek into the crater atop Wizard Island, the mini-volcano inside the lake. The hike was short and easy, about 45 minutes altogether. Two other peaks afford equal or better views for those who have two to three hours to invest. We had other plans: the ranger programs, the drive, a side trip to gaze upon hollow pinnacles positioned like sentries, a hike on the rim for a direct view of the island called Phantom Ship. In this setting, the last place we wanted to be was inside, so we bought sandwiches for lunch and ate them while perched on the wall at a scenic pullout.

In the afternoon we hiked into the crater for a two-hour boat ride and the different perspective it afforded. If the view of the lake is better on top - and it is - the view from below of the strange hues and shapes on the crater's walls is haunting. The stop at Wizard Island to pick up passengers left there earlier in the day gave us a close-up view of massive chunks of bare lava, not yet tempered by vegetation or softened by erosion. The Park Service warns that the hike out is strenuous, the equivalent of 64 flights of stairs that takes well over an hour. We made it up in a half-hour - and some would consider us senior citizens. No one who is reasonably healthy should let the warning signs scare them away.

Hikers get hungry, and we ate very well in a dining room with walls of stone and tree-trunk posts holding up the ceiling - part hunting lodge, part forest in atmosphere. The first night we were seated as the evening shadows began crawling down the crater and the last flashes of sunlight brightened a turret here or a lava outcropping there, before all went black. The second night our reservations were later. We took the hostess' advice and came early enough to enjoy a glass of wine in the aptly named Great Hall, joining those who'd gathered to sit in plush leather chairs and warm themselves by the fire and take in the views. Crater Lake Lodge opened in 1915 and was rebuilt from the inside out a decade ago.

Not surprisingly, the dining room features Northwest fare - fish, beef and pork specialties at dinner, with fruit garnishes and sauces. My favorite was the Northwest hotcakes on the breakfast menu: $6.25 for pancakes stuffed with fresh cherries, walnuts and cranberries, a concoction I'll long remember. We ate all our meals at the lodge because construction and closures last year gave us no other choice. A new dining facility opens this summer elsewhere in the park, but I don't see how it can compare to this one.

We spent two nights and one full day at Crater Lake. That's better than typical, but I longed for more. A second day would have given me time to check out the view from a different mountain, hike the wildflower trails, drop in on another ranger program and savor more Northwest hotcakes. Beyond that, something this lovely deserves more than just one day out of a lifetime.

SIDEBAR

Nearby attractions

Can't justify a trip to Oregon just for Crater Lake?

Well, you can, but you don't have to. Here are some other places to explore:
Ashland (90 miles southwest): Its 70-year-old Shakespeare Festival is considered among the nation's best: three stages, at least 10 different productions, as well as tours, classes and talks. Plays run mid-February to mid-October. Phone (541) 482-4331.

Portland (250 miles northwest). The city is a mecca for environmentalists and bikers as well as those interested in flowers and culture. Three gardens are worth visiting: Chinese, Japanese and the nation's first rose test garden. If you only have time to see one, go for the roses. The city also has notable museums celebrating art, regional history and science and technology (the OMSI). Here's a promise: Your children will not want to leave the OMSI.

Getting there: Go to Portland by way of scenic Route 230/138. The mountains will shelter you, the strangely shaped rocks (such as those dubbed the Old Man and the Old Woman) will have your eye, the waterfalls will lure you off the road, and the forests will take you back on. It's worth a day and more than one hike.

The Oregon shore: It helps make Oregon a contender for the nation's loveliest state.

Wine country: Oregon isn't California, but its reputation for producing fine wines is growing. The Willamette Valley between Portland and Eugene boasts the most wineries and the best opportunities for tasting, but there are smaller wine-growing regions elsewhere in the western quarter of the state. For a list of wineries and tourism advice, contact the Wine Advisory Board at www.oregonwine.org.

IF YOU GO

The season: The word for it is short. This year Crater Lake Lodge will open May 24 and close Oct. 14. Programming starts getting sparse mid-September, depending on the weather. Snow closes Rim Road late October and often into June, though the south entrance remains open year-round.

The weather: It snowed in September the day before we arrived but was crisply lovely when we were there. Nights are cold. Bring a jacket.

Lodging: If you want to stay in Crater Lake Lodge during July or August, your best bet is to make reservations now for 2007. Apart from a day here or there, the lodge is already sold out for those months this year. Rates start at $129. It's easier to get into the Mazama Village Motor Inn, which is seven miles from the lake but within the park. Nightly rate is $111. Phone (541) 830-8700 for reservations at either. There are also two campgrounds within the park.

Meals: Prices at the lodge are reasonable for a high-quality restaurant - about $100 for full dinner and wine for two, taxes and tip included. Those who want to eat dinner there should make reservations well before leaving home. Phone (541) 594-2255. A new restaurant opens this summer in the Mazama section.

Hiking: There are 90 miles of trails to hike. Pick up a guide at the visitors center.

Boating: Private boating is not allowed. Boat tours depart on the hour during high season. Adults will pay $23.50, children (ages 3-11) $14.

Other activities: Biking, scuba diving, fishing, cross-country skiing in winter. Bring your own equipment. Barbara Mantz Drake is a freelance travel writer.



© Copley News Service
  1. Legal Jobs
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  6. When the weather breaks, head for Crater Lake

published April 17, 2006

( 7 votes, average: 4.5 out of 5)
What do you think about this article? Rate it using the stars above and let us know what you think in the comments below.

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