A rail devotee finds famed British steam train is a jolly good way to spend a day

EAST GRINSTEAD, England - Sitting in a vintage dining car on the Golden Arrow Pullman, I found it hard to detest a man to whom I owe my life's passion.
 

Still, years after his death, the memory of Dr. Richard Beeching raises the blood pressure of many a railroad enthusiast around the globe.


As head of state-run British Railways in the 1960s, it was Beeching who orchestrated a massive program of line closures that came to be known as the Beeching Axe. Eliminated were 8,000 miles of track and more than 2,000 stations.

So infamous was he that the theme song of a BBC-TV sitcom of the last decade taunted:

"Oh! Dr. Beeching, what have you done?

There once were lots of trains to catch but soon there will be none.

I'll have to buy a bike as I can't afford a car.

Oh! Dr. Beeching! What a naughty man you are!"

But without Beeching and other transport limb surgeons who wielded their axes in the '50s and '60s, my wife Sharon and I may not have been enjoying a Sunday luncheon of roast sirloin of beef, Madeira sauce and thyme-roasted mushrooms as a steam engine, No. 41312, pulled our luxe train through the fields of Sussex on the nine-mile-long Bluebell Railway.

Throughout the United Kingdom, on routes that fell victim to economics and highways, a revival of the glory days of railroading has become a big business that caters to nostalgia buffs as well as to birthday and retirement parties.

Along abandoned rights-of-way on branch lines to nowhere, new tracks have sprouted, running refurbished 19th and early 20th century steam locomotives and vintage rolling stock lovingly reassembled from the scrap heap. Complete with gift shops, restoration workshops, museums and even a pub here and there, these new railroads sport names such as the Chosley & Wallingford Railway, Paignton & Dartmouth Steam Railway, Vale of Rheidol Railway, and the Strathspey Steam Railway.

Take your pick; there are more than of 100 of these lines throughout the United Kingdom, attracting tourists as well as locals wanting to take their children on a "Day out With Thomas" (the tank engine); to dress up for a night out on a deluxe dinner train; or to just sit back and listen to the hissing and puffing of a steam engine and the shrill notes of a whistle.

<<Offering passengers a ticket to any era ranging from the 1890s to the mid-1950s, many of these railways have been used to create instant authenticity for any number of films and TV shows, including Harry Potter movies, "Brideshead Revisited" and the classic "The Railway Children."

For Americans traveling to the U.K. who begin their journeys in London, the closest choice for such time travel is the Bluebell, about 30 miles south from Victoria Station by connecting train and shuttle bus, and just 12 miles east of Gatwick Airport.

Since it opened in 1960 as the world's first preserved standard-gauge railway line, Bluebell has claimed that 100 percent of its passenger operations are steam-hauled, a rarity among heritage railways.

Making all this magic happen are unpaid volunteers such as Paul Russell, a cement-company manager who travels 150 miles from home twice a month to work as a fireman on the Bluebell Railway, which maintains a small full-time staff.

<<"It's as much social as anything else," said Russell, who was enjoying a Sunday afternoon luncheon ride with his mother.

Russell is one of the 9,800 or so members of the Bluebell Railway Preservation Society, many of whom volunteer on the railway in positions ranging from engine driver to track repairer and Bluebell band member.

It's a bit ironic, Russell noted, that an organization promoting authenticity needs to use coal for its engines that comes from Poland or Russia, and not the U.K., formerly one of the world's top coal producers.

But there's much to boast about. He points with pride to the fine work done on the overstuffed seats in the dining car - work done by volunteers - and makes it clear that working on this line is a labor of love shared by a broad range of backgrounds, from peers to pipe fitters. There is even a Bluebell auxiliary for kids.

A day's outing on this line, where schedules are precisely followed and set months in advance, ranges in price from about $20 in third-class coaches to $30 in first class. (There is no second class).

Passengers can ride up and back down the line as much as they like, stopping for a picnic perhaps, or a visit to the repair sheds, museums or even a railroad-collectibles swap meet.

More elegant are special-events trains, ranging from a James Bond-themed evening journey to regularly scheduled dinner and luncheon outings using carriages varnished to the max, with velvety overstuffed seats and inlaid wood trim. Tables are set with linen tablecloths, china and Sheffield silverware.

With a pop from a champagne bottle, my wife and I were off recently on such a luncheon jaunt in the dining car Lilian, whose pedigree was laid out for passengers more precisely than the champion at last year's Westminster Kennel Club show.

The all-steel carriage was built in 1928 as a third-class parlor car for the Queen of Scots service between London and Edinburgh run by the London & North Eastern Railway, and is named for the wife of Bluebell President Bernard J. Holden.

<<The exquisite fittings, brass work and lace curtains would never reveal that a complete makeover had been performed to transform what had been a third-class carriage into a first-class dining car, including heraldry evoking the Golden Arrow Pullman service that connected London and Paris by train and ferry. In Britain, it ran from London to Dover, where passengers embarked on a ferry across the English Channel. Its French counterpart, leading from Calais to Paris, was know as the Fleche d'Or.

On this revival of the famed train, the quest for authenticity was so great that some of the car's parts were cannibalized from a railway carriage that had been turned into a small restaurant inside a London store.

"Soup for you, madam?" an attendant asked my wife on our recent trip. At $75 each for lunch, in addition to the first-class rail fare, this clearly was an extravagance billed to once-in-a-lifetime memories.

As the meal progressed, a quiet descended throughout the car while passengers dined on breast of guinea fowl with mead, lemon sole with crab and salmon mousse, or roast sirloin of beef. Wine was an added accompaniment that further was written off to experience.

We took in the surrounding countryside and waited in anticipation for the train to lurch through the 731-yard-long West Hoathly tunnel, the longest on a preserved railway line in the U.K.

It's surprising that in such a densely populated country, close to one of the world's largest cities, the hustle and bustle of daily life seemed to have disappeared entirely as our time machine labored on. There were no busy roads following our route, and precious few signs of habitation.

Still, there's not a chance to drift off into daydreams, because seemingly every inch of the 9-mile railway has been documented and has a story to tell. The guidebook kept us informed along the way: "The line continues on a down gradient passing below the lofty Three Arch Bridge, and as the train emerges from a cutting at Holywell to cross the road to Lindfield, the small waterworks may be glimpsed to the right."

Even the adjacent right of way has been laid out with a series of walking trails, one of which takes in sites used to film "The Railway Children." And every so often, a battery of photographers would appear outside to record the throbbing train straining up a grade.

At Horsted Keynes, a station along the way, we saw the work ahead for the Bluebell volunteers. Lines of weathered and decaying passenger carriages and freight cars ("goods wagons") were on tracks awaiting their turn for renovation.

So great is the need for steam locomotion on these railways that many share their engines, while other vintage locos pay weekend visits to the lines, attracting rail fans wanting to see a certain type of engine.

When we reached Kingscote, the northern terminus of the line, we got out for a stretch, walking into a 1920s-era rail station, and waited for the engine to be shunted to take us back to our starting point of Sheffield Park.

On the return trip, somewhere into the dessert of pear and almond tart with blackberry sauce, my wife exclaimed, "Haven't I seen that cow before?" as we passed by a herd of cattle seen earlier in the outing.

<<Cows and all, it was a wonderful afternoon, which even my wife agreed was worth the trip from London and the lure of its attractions.

As the train pulled in to our destination, Russell called over.

"Do you know our motto?"

"No," I said.

"Floreat vapor," he replied.

"What's that?" I said, not catching the words.

"Floreat vapor - let steam flourish."

SIDEBAR

Lots of choices, but plan ahead

By Carl Larsen

There are more than 100 railways listed on the British Heritage Railway Association Web site, ranging from relatively static museum displays to full-throttle excursion lines running trains led by restored steam and diesel-powered locomotives.

The association reports that the preserved lines operate on 384 miles of track with 279 stations, and in 2002 drew 5.4 million visitors.

Here are four good choices for an outing. Because most lines operate on rights of way that were little used, they often are far from cities and require some planning to reach, especially without a car.

Beyond experiencing the vaporous throbbing of a steam engine and the sometimes-plush seats of vintage equipment, the payoff is that the excursions run through scenic regions and offer the ability to hop off and hop on at quaint villages along the way.

For travelers without automobiles, all four of these lines connect with mainline rail service.

Coordinate your travel well in advance, and note that not all of the lines run their steam locomotives every day or in all seasons. Outings using steam locomotives generally are posted on Web sites, as are special-event weekends, such as the children's "Days out With Thomas" (the tank engine) or extra-fare lunch and dinner trains.

Bluebell Railway: Close to London, the facilities of this 100 percent steam-operated railway depict travel using rolling stock from the 1880s to the 1950s. Facilities are open year-round except Christmas Day, attracting more than 185,000 visitors a year. A variety of steam engines, from shunters to mainline behemoths, operate on the nine miles of track on approximately 270 days. Extra-fare dining trains offer Saturday dinner and Sunday lunch service. Facilities include restored stations, museums, locomotive sheds and gift shops. Connects to mainline rail service at East Grinstead, where a shuttle bus takes riders to the Bluebell on heavy-use days. Dining-service trains depart from the harder-to-reach Sheffield Park station. Web site: www.bluebell-railway.co.uk.

Ffestiniog Railway: Acclaimed as the oldest independent railway company in the world, this 13.5-mile, narrow-gauge line runs in Wales amid the hilly terrain of Snowdownia National Park and attracts rail fans from around the world wanting to ride the compact cars and see steam engines not much bigger than a sport utility vehicle. It was constructed in the 1830s to transport slate from the quarries around the inland town of Blaenau Ffestiniog to Porthmadog on the coast, where it was loaded onto ships. The 700-foot descent to the coast includes a complete reversing loop and a variety of scenery from mountains, forests and lakes to coastal plains and marshes. Operates year-round, but check days of service. Most trains offer an at-your-seat buffet service. The company also operates the nearby 12-mile West Highland Railway at Caernarvon. Plans are to merge the two lines by 2009. Ffestiniog trains connect to the national rail service at Blaenau Ffestiniog. Web site: www.festrail.co.uk.

North Yorkshire Moors Railway: A favorite of film and TV producers seeking vintage railway scenes, this line runs over 18 scenic miles in northeast England and is the United Kingdom's most heavily visited heritage railway. It has been featured on "Brideshead Revisited," "All Creatures Great and Small" and in many Sherlock Holmes and Agatha Christie movies, as well as the "Harry Potter" films. The line offers one of the steepest rail gradients in the United Kingdom, giving riders "one of the best places to see and hear steam engines put through their paces." Several onboard luncheon and dining options are offered, including a menu featuring roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, and Orient Express-style service. Special events include a murder-mystery Pullman. Trains are accessible to those using wheelchairs. Connects to mainline railway service at Grosmont. Limited winter service. Web site: northyorkshiremoorsrailway.com.

Severn Valley Railway: A consistent award-winner for its meticulous restoration, this 16-mile line evokes a Victorian-era railroad heyday. Tracks parallel the Severn River from Kidderminster to Bridgnorth, close to the Iron Bridge World Heritage Site, a collection of museums chronicling the rise of the Industrial Age. Along the way are beautifully restored stations in villages where riders can break their trips and later reboard the trains. Highlight is crossing the Severn River on Victoria Bridge. Offers luncheon and dining runs. Special events include "1940s Weekends," steam festivals and "Days out With Thomas" for children. Connects with mainline railway service at Kidderminster. Web site: www.svr.co.uk.

SIDEBAR

For a steep fee, you help run the rail

By Carl Larsen

For the ultimate rail-fan adventure, many of Britain's heritage railways offer the "footplate experience," a course in learning how to operate a steam locomotive.

At the Bluebell Railway south of London, several courses are offered, ranging from a one-day introductory outing to a series of progressive sessions that last over five days and which confer a certificate and "an assessment recording your achievements in the theory and practice of steam enginemanship." Even more intensive training in driving and firing larger, more demanding locomotives is offered.

The courses are expensive, and tuition depends on the size of engine and train that is operated.

The Bluebell's one-day course, which costs $346, is offered on most Saturdays throughout the year and lasts from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with lunch provided. For more information on the Bluebell course, e-mail steamway@dircon.co.uk, or consult the Bluebell Web site:
www.bluebell-railway.co.uk/bluebell.

In Wales, the Talyllyn Railway offers a one-day footplate course working on the narrow-gauge steam railway. The cost is $890 and allows the student to bring guests. For more information, see: www.talyllyn.co.uk.

These are get-down and get-dirty exercises, with participants warned to wear proper shoes and clothing that can withstand coal dust, grease and oil. Be prepared to shovel coal into the firebox, a job that quickly will show how demanding these hands-on courses can be.

IF YOU GO

BritRail, www.britrail.com: Sells passes good on trains throughout England, Scotland and Wales that connect with many heritage railways. Sold in the U.S., the passes offer seamless travel without extra ticketing on all of Britain's rail services, which are operated by a variety of private operators. In conjunction with the Heritage Railways Association, any BritRail pass is valid for a 20 percent discount to admissions to many heritage railways. To see the list of railways accepting the discount, log on to the BritRail Web site and click on "Promotions."

Heritage Railways Association, www.heritagerailways.com: A list of heritage railways operated throughout the U.K., including schedules and services offered.

VisitBritain, visitbritain.com: The national tourism agency maintains a thorough Web site of major attractions, accommodations and a listing of events.

Carl Larsen is a staff writer for The San Diego Union-Tribune.

© Copley News Service