Beneath its surface, like a great bubbling teapot, fissures have produced hundreds of thermal hot springs. And when you combine these natural thermal baths with year-round snow-fed streams that cascade down from the mountains, nurturing the growth of shady fan palm oases, you can see why the Coachella Valley was a popular "resort community" for American Indians 3,000 years before the ballyhoo of Las Vegas.
Hollywood discovered the valley in the 1920s. And it soon became Tinseltown's desert escape. Even notorious gangster Al Capone found the region to his liking, offering an ideal getaway from the mean streets of Chicago.
Where else do thoroughfares so proudly proclaim their silver-screen heritage and famous citizens with names like Frank Sinatra Drive, Dinah Shore Drive, Bob Hope Drive, Gerald Ford Drive and Gene Autry Trail?
Today, the valley is home to the communities of Coachella, Palm Springs, Desert Hot Springs, Palm Desert, Rancho Mirage, Indian Wells, Cathedral City, Bermuda Dunes, La Quinta, Thousand Palms and Indio. The resident population is more than 400,000, but that figure does not take into account the constant stream of tourists that add thousands every day. Summertime temperatures can reach a dangerous 120 degrees, and ever-extending development in the region threatens to drain the valley's precious underground reservoir. But building continues at an alarming pace.
An international airport connects Palm Springs to the world. There are enough championship golf courses to support an entire PGA season, along with at least as many luxurious spas to soften the blows of modern living. Add the lucrative introduction of Indian gaming, which has brought high rolling to the low desert, and you can see why the Coachella Valley has it all - from petroglyphs to poker chips.
OK, it doesn't have a scaled-down model of the Eiffel Tower or an Egyptian pyramid, a mock-up of the Manhattan skyline or Venetian canals. But in almost every other way, the Coachella Valley is ready to offer Las Vegas a run for its money.
In this, the first of three articles on the Coachella Valley, we'll explore the region's natural wonders, the palms and peaks that make it such a great escape.
EXPLORING THE INDIAN CANYONS
One of the wonders of Palm Springs (as opposed to Las Vegas) is that you can be standing in the center of downtown one moment - amid the hustle and bustle of hotels, art galleries, gift shops and eateries - get in your car, drive 20 minutes and find yourself in a realm of primeval beauty: the Indian canyons, where centuries ago the Cahuilla Indians made their homes.
Palm, Murray, Andreas, Tahquitz and Chino Canyons are part of the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. And for a modest admission fee you can experience their dense, shadowy palm forests, rushing streams, rocky cliffs and scenic desert landscape.
The only way to explore the canyons, however, is by foot or on horseback. For those who are adventurous, the lands of the reservation offer miles and miles of trails that wander through ancient palm groves and snake their way deep into the steep canyons.
If that sounds too strenuous, a simple picnic can be had without having to move more than a few hundred yards from the two main parking areas. For those who enjoy combining learning with their wandering, you can sign up for one of the ranger-guided hikes. However you chose to explore the canyons, the overwhelming sensation (except on the most crowded days) is one of total escape into a primordial past.
On a scorching day in 1935, Francis Crocket, a businessman in the town of Banning, Calif., had a vision. Gazing up at the snow-capped peak of Mount San Jacinto, he saw the perfect alternative to the sweltering heat of the desert. In that moment, the inspiration for the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway was born.
Crocket's bold technological wonder, however, would take more than three decades to complete, with much of the heavy lifting for the tram's towers being carried out by intrepid helicopter pilots. Finally, after endless fits and starts, funding setbacks and stiff objections from conservationists, the tramway made its inaugural trip in 1963, rising the 2.5 miles in 15 minutes, where it arrived at the cool summit station perched at 8,516 feet.
Since that time, more than 13 million people have taken this spectacular thrill ride. But the ride is just the beginning - the station provides an ideal starting point for hiking, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing into the high country. Just remember that after your 8,000-foot elevator ride, the air is going to be a lot thinner, and it takes some time to adjust.
The views from the station are panoramic, with viewing decks and a fine restaurant where you can dine as you look down on the desert far below. The tram also offers special ride-and-dine packages. There's also a gift shop, a park service information center, a ranger station (where back-country passes can be obtained) and a rental facility for winter sports.
Then, after a nice strenuous day of hiking, you can ride down the mountain, head back to your hotel, relax and soak in a nice bubbling hot tub. What could be better?
The Aqua Caliente Indian canyons offer miles of hiking trails through stream-fed canyons and natural palm forests. The entrance is located at 38520 S. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs. Open daily 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Admission: $8, $6 for students and seniors (62 and over), $4 for children, $10 for equestrian. There are also ranger-led hiking tours. Information: 760-323-6018.
The Palm Springs Ariel Tramway rises 8,000 feet from the desert to the high country of the San Jacinto Mountain range. Facilities include restaurants, observation decks, winter sports equipment rental, gift shops and a ranger station. The tram station is located at 1 Tramway Road, Palm Springs. Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. weekends and holidays. Tickets: $21, $15 for children, $20 for seniors (60 and over), an annual pass is available for $120, $90 for children. Ride and Dine tickets are also available. For information: 888-515-8726 or www.pstramway.com.
Jim Farber is a staff writer for the Daily Breeze in Torrance, Calif.
© Copley News Service
