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London restaurants today lead the world in style

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published July 31, 2006

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In March 2005, Gourmet magazine declared London "the best place to eat on the planet." On Europe-based Restaurant magazine's list of 50 best restaurants in the world for 2005, 11 are located in London, compared to only six in Paris.

When I was in London in October, I made it my culinary mission to find out if my palate might be as pleased.


I based myself in my new favorite London neighborhood, which is actually one of the oldest ones there: St. James's. Bordered by Piccadilly, Haymarket, St. James's Park and Green Park, this area became the center of fashion in the 1530s and today its historic streets are considered even more exclusive than those in Mayfair.

This neighborhood boasts Jermyn Street, the famed haberdashery thoroughfare; King Street, known for its art galleries, including Christie's; St. James's Palace, where Charles and Camilla live; and Spencer House, built in 1766 by an ancestor of the late Princess Diana. Its secreted short streets that back onto parklands also hold some of the loveliest private homes.

One of those tiny streets, a dead-end courtyard really, led to my base, Dukes Hotel, a sophisticated but charming hideaway from where I walked throughout this wonderful neighborhood - to all the tony shops of Jermyn Street and Old Bond Street, to the museums and galleries of The Mall, through both Green Park and St. James's Park to Buckingham Palace, and to four restaurants that showcased both traditional and modern British cuisine.

Dukes is a relatively recent addition to London's roster of fine hotels - a redeveloped collection of town houses, it feels like a quiet country manor in the middle of the city. The hotel proved a perfect partner in my culinary quest for a few reasons: Its restaurant guide helped me select places I wanted to try based on cuisine, walking distance and how much locals liked them; and the clubby Dukes Bar, considered a hot nightspot in St. James's that's known for the best dry martini in the city, the ideal destination at the end of each day. Dukes' staff also made my restaurant reservations, which can be hard to come by, and because I was dining alone, such a connection proved useful.

My first jaunt was to Green's, a British traditional restaurant right around the corner from Jermyn Street that celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2002. Green's is the passion of owner Simon Parker-Bowles, former brother-in-law of Camilla, and he is there nearly every day.

Green's is a classic rendition of a traditional British restaurant: dark mahogany booths upholstered in a copper tweed fabric, with dark green leather bar stools lined up along the curving, marble-topped bar. Its walls are adorned with drawings by the late, legendary cartoonist of the Evening Standard, Jak.

I chose two dishes that seemed British traditional to me: Dorset crab salad, featuring fresh crab simply dressed with mustard and mayonnaise on a bed of mixed greens with cherry tomatoes; and Green's potted shrimps with wholemeal toast. I couldn't figure out how they bound the potted shrimps, to be spread on pieces of warm brown toast, until my server revealed the basic ingredient to be just butter - simply delicious.

For dinner that night, I walked to Le Caprice, another stalwart that's been around as long as Green's. This decidedly British modern restaurant, said to be frequented by the rich and famous, is a black-and-white, art deco brasserie. It has a sophisticated edge, and the relatively small place was packed in a lively scene.

Le Caprice's cosmopolitan menu ranges from Vietnamese prawn salad to butternut squash risotto to loin of yellowfin tuna to Glen Fyne rib steak. The signature dish is the salmon fishcake (made with poached salmon and mashed potatoes) with buttered spinach and sorrel sauce.

For lunch the next day, I walked through Green Park and St. James's Park, past Duck Island and all the amazing water fowl that gather there, to Inn the Park, the only restaurant inside St. James's Park. Its progressive architecture has won awards, while its food showcases decidedly British artisan producers. A very casual place, part of it is devoted to takeout for those who want to cart out a picnic.

On a Sunday for lunch, I had the two-course set menu for $40, choosing a starter and a main course: heirloom cauliflower soup and the double haddock fish cakes with lemon and sorrel mayonnaise.

For my final dinner, I walked to The Wolseley on Piccadilly, a newish cafe that has grabbed quite a few London awards, including Best Newcomer and Best Restaurant - as well as one of the spots on that list of the world's top 50 restaurants. It's a gorgeous place, with a 30-foot-high, domed ceiling and a loft level for tucked-away tables. Black lacquer wooden half-walls curve to give extra privacy, and black leather banquettes hold tables covered in crisp white linens.

The Wolseley menu was large and wandered all over the map, from breakfast to afternoon tea, to an all-day menu of salads, eggs, sandwiches and shellfish, to a lunch and dinner menu with dishes originating from Britain, France and Italy.

I loved the celeriac remoulade with Bayonne ham that was served with wonderful bread sticks; and the classic Welsh rarebit, a simple, filling, open-faced cheese sandwich.

When I wound up back home at the cozy Dukes Bar for a nightcap, I wished I could pursue this British culinary mission for a whole lot longer.

IF YOU GO

STAYING THERE: Dukes Hotel, 35 St. James's Place, London SW1A 1NY, phone 011-44-20-7491-4840 or 800-381-4702; www.dukeshotel.com. Rates for its 90 rooms, including six suites, range from $431-$1,500.

EATING THERE: Green's, 36 Duke St., St. James SW1; 020-7930-4566, about $120 for two; Le Caprice, Arlington Street SW1; 020-7629-2239; about $185 for two; Inn the Park, St. James's Park, 020-7451-9999; about $110 for two; The Wolseley, 160 Piccadilly, 020-7499-6996; about 90 pounds for two.

Priscilla Lister is a freelance travel writer.

© Copley News Service
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published July 31, 2006

( 2 votes, average: 3.8 out of 5)
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