At Manor in New Hampshire, memories of Golden Pond are forever
by Athena F. Lucero
VIEW FROM THE TOP - From the summit of Rattlesnake Mountain, hikers take in the panorama of Squam Lake's island and maze-like geography below. CNS Photo by Athena F. Lucero.
Before coming east, I rented the timeless classic, which I hadn't seen in years. The opening scene replayed instantly in my mind when Norman and Ethel Thayer (played by Henry Fonda and Katharine Hepburn) arrived to spend their 44th year at their summer home on the lake.
"Norman!" Ethel called out with nostalgia. "The loons - they're welcoming us back!"
I'd never been to New Hampshire before, although I'm always intrigued when my friends from the East reminisce about their childhood summers "at the lake." A native Southern Californian, beaches were my back yard. The tranquil quality of life on the lake, however, held a special allure for me. A long weekend in early June was all I needed to capture the magic of Squam Lake - or shall I say Golden Pond?
Under the tourist radar, it surprised me that some New Englanders don't know about Squam Lake, considered one of the most peaceful and pristine lakes in the country and the most picturesque in New Hampshire. Naturally spring fed and dotted with tiny islands and secluded coves, it is one of six lakes that make up the popular Lakes Region of New Hampshire.
ON GOLDEN HILL - The Manor on Golden Pond was built in 1903. The 27-room bed-and-breakfast sits atop Shephard Hill in Holderness, N.H. CNS Photo by Athena F. Lucero.
My four-day retreat was at, where else, the Manor on Golden Pond in Holderness, its name inspired by the movie when the filming transformed the town into a movie set. A romantic, 27-room bed-and-breakfast 40 miles north of Concord, the English manor house sits gracefully at the end of a winding driveway atop Shephard Hill.
Built in 1903, it was originally the home of Isaac Van Horn, a wealthy Englishman. The majestic natural setting with commanding views of the lake convinced him that this was the place to build a summer home for his new bride.
Wandering the grounds, I crossed the road at the bottom of the hill where a dirt path led me to the Manor's small, private beach on the lakeshore. Empty Adirondack chairs invited me to sit and watch kayakers glide effortlessly over the water. A few steps away, Dover Cottage, the Manor's only lodging on the lake, sat at the water's edge. I imagined guests through the years enjoying countless summer barbecues and starlit nights on its wraparound deck.
Such captivating surroundings gave me the sense of space and solitude I was in search of, a temporary escape from my otherwise busy urban existence.
FREE FROM THE CROWDS - At The Manor's private beach, the original 100-year-old boathouse designed with beveled glass is still in use today. CNS Photo by Athena F. Lucero.
Squam Lake also cast its spell on Brian and Mary Ellen Shields, who bought the inn in 1999.
"We fulfilled our longtime dream to own a bed-and-breakfast inn," Mary Ellen recalled with a smile. "When we saw the inn and the lake, we knew this was it."
They packed the car, their two young daughters in tow, moved from Canada and never looked back.
With their raw passion, Brian's impeccable skills at building and Mary Ellen's instinctive talent for interior design, the couple turned the manor house into an intimate, first-class inn. Their warm, down-to-earth personalities made me feel more like a friend visiting for the weekend.
In the spirit of reconnecting, I invited Anika, my daughter's best friend since childhood now living in New Hampshire, to join me at the Manor. She'd been living near Concord a couple of years since graduating from college and had never seen Squam Lake, only a half hour away. Upon arrival, Anika couldn't hold back.
"I feel like I'm on vacation - and I'm only 30 minutes from home!" she said.
LAKE HOUSE LIVING ROOM - The living room at The Manor on Golden Pond offers guests the cozy feel of a country home. CNS Photo by Athena F. Lucero.
The next morning we set out on a pontoon boat tour of the lake to see with our own eyes the locations where scenes of the film were shot: the launch where Chelsea (Jane Fonda) braved her back flip; the cove where young Billie Rae (Doug McKeon) was in his glory driving the speed boat solo; the dreaded Purgatory Cove; and the gazebo, now covered in foliage and barely visible from the water, where Chelsea broke down in her mother's arms.
To view Squam Lake's magnificent panorama - and to squeeze in some healthy cardio activity - we embarked on a comfortable yet invigorating hike up Rattlesnake Mountain, not far from the inn. A steady climb took us to the summit, where we joined other hikers admiring the lake's maze-like geography that is home to 67 islands.
One of the islands - Chocorua Island (commonly known as Church Island) - intrigued me so much I asked Brian to take us out on the speed boat the next day to see it. Accessible only by boat, it's the site of America's first resident boys' summer camp that operated from 1881 to 1889. Religious services were a regular part of the camp's activities, complete with a choir and an organ player.
After the camp closed, Protestant Episcopalian services continued at Chocorua for more than 20 years. Since 1941, nondenominational worship services are held each year from June to September. A lovely sanctuary, I sat among the rows of empty open-air pews and cherished a few contemplative moments as towering pine trees and the lake's calm waters behind them created Mother Nature's backdrop.
We returned to the Manor in time for afternoon tea in the library. On comfortable sofas we sipped a relaxing cup of tea and savored scrumptious cookies and tarts baked fresh in the kitchen. Our last night at the Manor we celebrated with an exquisite, multi-course dinner in the Van Horn Dining Room. Prepared by the inn's award-winning chef, our feast included a savory bisque, frogs' legs, oven-roasted chateaubriand and vegetables sauteed to crunchy perfection. The finale was a heavenly creme brulee.
We decided our weekend wasn't complete without paying proper tribute to the lake. So Anika grabbed "On Golden Pond" off the library video shelf, and like girls at a slumber party we got comfy in our pajamas and watched every scene almost to the end, when I finally woke Anika to tell her it was time to call it a night.
I now embrace my own memories of my holiday at Squam Lake. And as I do with every trip, I return home with something to remember my journey. This time, a wood-carved loon sits on a shelf at my home in California. Every now and then I hear its haunting call that takes me back to a magical place called Golden Pond.
IF YOU GO
The Manor on Golden Pond, Box T, Route 3, Holderness, NH 03245, (603) 968-3348 or www.manorongoldenpond.com. Rates: singles/doubles $300-$460, suites $360-$560 (includes full country breakfast, afternoon tea, video library, canoes, paddle boats, private beach, swimming pool, tennis, lawn games). For information about the area: Lakes Region Association, (603) 744-8664 or www.lakesregion.org.
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