A RIDE THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE - One of the hundreds of bicycle trails meandering through France's Central Loire Valley. It gets very hot and dry biking through the vineyards, and there are no water stops. A backpack is essential to carry necessities. CNS Photo by John Blanchette.
This is where the nobles and monarchy retreated from the rigors of Paris to their summer castles, and where Parisians today drive less than two hours on the weekends to enjoy France as it once was. Things haven't changed very much among the hillside medieval towns that dot the rural countryside.
Over 800 chateaux grace the Loire and 100 are open to the public, many providing lodging. We choose to explore the treasures of this land by bike. It is, after all, relatively flat and with gas prices at $5 to $6 a gallon, one can preserve one's own treasure by taking a leisurely and sensual self-propelled tour of this quiet land. The region offers 300 kilometers of bike paths and other alternative forms of transportation, including horseback riding, kayaking and canoeing, all of which can be rented on an hourly, daily or weekly basis to augment a motor tour.
While pedaling between small towns on surprisingly traffic-free country lanes, a pleasant way to divide the day involves indulging in France's main passions, food and wine. It is easy to visit five to 10 tasting rooms in between dining or picnicking along the bike path.
HAILED BY CAESAR - The immense 12th century Cathedral St.-Etienne in Bourges, France, is the oldest Gothic cathedral in France. Julius Caesar, one of the city's first tourists, called Bourges the most beautiful city in Gaul. CNS Photo by John Blanchette.
Most wineries are informal. Look for signs that say "degustation" in front of the entrance. This means they offer free tastes. You can also purchase the wines directly from the grower at considerable savings. Try to find the 2003 vintage, which was an exceptional year.
We concentrated on the Sancerre wine region, a medieval hilltop town surrounded by thousands of acres of vines containing over 300 vineyards. They produce exceptional dry and flowery wines, primarily from the pinot noir and sauvignon blanc grapes grown in the chalky limestone, flint rock and clay soils of the area.
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In Sancerre there are a number of auberges that offer a wide variety of local wines, in case you missed a few on your tour, or would rather drink when you've finished your ride. Goat cheese is an area specialty and served at almost every meal. Goat cheeses match extremely well with the wines and a big plateful is traditionally served with drinks in the afternoon.
CENTRAL BOURGES - Bourges is noted particularly for two desserts, tarte tarin, a French upside down apple pie, and Forestines, the first baked candy confection in Europe. CNS Photo by John Blanchette.
The town of Sancerre is a joy to explore with beautiful views revealing themselves as you wind around the steep narrow roads and walkways. I stayed at the 15th century Chateau de la Verrerie, an elegant hunting estate fronting a lake and surrounded by forests. Owned by Count Beraud de Vogue, the castle has been in his family since 1842. On the grounds is LaMaison d'Helene restaurant, which is open to the public and specializes in local meats and dishes, including lentils, beef, poultry and wild game and fish from the estate.
The count lived in California for many years and the family speaks perfect English.
The capital of the area is the cathedral city of Bourges, a 25-mile bike ride Southeast of Sancerre. Julius Caesar, one of its first tourists, called it the most beautiful city in all of Gaul. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the immense 12th century Cathedral St. Etienne is the oldest Gothic cathedral south of the Loire and dominates the town. Watch out for the bats when you visit. They are considered to be a lucky sign and are welcomed in through the front door during the day.
The area is noted particularly for two desserts. Tarte tatin, sort of a French upside down apple pie, and forestines, the first baked candy confection in Europe, composed of a crisp sugar shell and a soft center of almond paste and chocolate. Visit Maison des Forestines in Bourges at 3 Place Cujas and indulge.
TIMELESS CHARM - Little villages dot the countryside of France's Central Loire Valley amid rich farmlands. Things haven't changed much in the hillside medieval towns. CNS Photo by John Blanchette.
IF YOU GO
Contact the wine bureau at www.vins-centre-loire.com to get a comprehensive English-language pamphlet with a full listing of vineyards open to the public. Some of my favorites were Domaine Paul Prieur & Fils (ask about his bicycle collection, dating back to the 1920s), Domaine Cherrier & Fils, Domaine Serge Laloue, Les Celliers de la Pauline, Domaine Hubert Brochard, Domaine Henri Bourgeois and Domaine Jean Reverdy & Sons. Their wines are available in the United States, but are less expensive at the vineyard (5-8 euros a bottle), a good reason to visit the Sancerre.
It's not hard to find a good meal in the Central Loire Valley and they all come with the local wine. Most specialize in the cuisine of the area (terroir). Some of the most memorable meals we had were served at D'Antan Sancerrois, Le Bourbonnoux and La Cote des Monts Damnes. For the more difficult palates, pizzas and hamburgers can also be found.
SOME BICYCLE TRAVEL TIPS
Always carry some euros. A surprising number of shops don't honor credit cards or traveler's checks, because of the exorbitant fees, and most won't accept American dollars. Also be aware of the time. Many businesses close for the lunch hour (sometimes two hours). If you are not used to the slim bicycle seats favored by the French, make sure you have padded riding pants or a sore derriere could cause you to finish your bike trip in a rental car. Always use sunscreen and carry plenty of water. It gets very hot and dry biking through the vineyards, and there are no water stops. A backpack is essential to carry necessities.
Le Vieux Moulin Bicycle Center, www.lvmoulin.com, offers guided tour packages, and in the town of Saint Satur, Loire Nature Decouverte offers canoe, kayak and horseback riding.
There are a wide range of housing options in the area, from Chateau la Verrerie ( www.chateaux-france.com/verrerie.fr), 210 euros per person, to bed-and-breakfasts - one of the best is the gardened and newly refurbished 18th century La Chanceliere, www.la-chanceliere.com, $110 euros for two and there is also a modern hotel, Les Tilleuls (62 euros for two), which has a swimming pool.
The Loire regional tourist office (www.visaloire.com) and the French Tourist Office (212-838-7800), www.franceguide.com, publish a number of free pamphlets and maps for bicycle tourism that include places that cater to bike riders, rental shops, special trips and popular trails, information on guided tours, and places to stay and dine.
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