The JD Wine Collection: Sniff, Sip, Swallow

Can you tell your Chardonnays apart from your Tuscan reds? The facts of wine every lawyer should know.

Shouldn't every JD come with a complete wine cellar? We think so.


Wine, like great books and a full collection of Coltrane discs, is one of those things a person of the world needs to own. There are clients and bosses to impress. Dates to woo. Toasts to toast.

Developing true oenological expertise is a lifelong pursuit, requiring careful study, a sophisticated palate, and a soulful passion. Who the hell has time for that? Besides, have you ever met a cool wine expert?

No, what you need is just the right amount of wine knowledge. Enough to get you started but not so much that you start scaring yourself (or others).

Ready your glasses. We have just the thing.

Recently, we visited New York City's Union Square Wine and Spirits Shop, where we consulted with wine director Steve Gett. Gett, who has been in the grown-up grape-juice biz for eight years, is about as cool a wine expert as you'll find. His shop is sandwiched between Greenwich Village and the Flatiron district, two of New York's hippest neighborhoods. That means Gett caters to an urban, sophisticated, and youthful clientele-including a good number of lawyers and law students (NYU and Cardozo law schools are just a cork's toss away).

So what did we say to Monsieur Gett? Build us a wine collection-and make it good. The rules: Pick two dozen wines encompassing a variety of styles, grapes, regions, and price ranges; bear in mind various wine-quaffing occasions; and keep the final tab below four figures.

As you'll see, Gett did just that, dividing the booty into five slightly quirky but altogether appealing categories-Tuscan Reds, Chardonnays, Value Bottles, Splurges, and Sparkling Wines. Generally speaking, he stayed away from American wines in favor of offerings from Italy, Spain, France, and Australia (unless you live in California, U.S. wines tend to be overpriced, Gett says). Other than that, he went purely by the time-tested criterion of wine aficionados everywhere-yumminess. And he brought the whole deal in at $956, just under the $1,000 wire.

One more thing: "The best way to learn about wine is to drink wine," Gett says. "The more you taste, the better."

Did we tell you this guy was cool?

Tuscan Reds

Sure, Gett could have selected a variety of reds from regions all over the world, and that would have been swell. Instead, he focused exclusively on Tuscany. The western Italian paradise is home to many of the best red wine producers on the planet, and a streak of good weather combined with fast-advancing wine-making expertise have brought on a golden age of Italian vino, Gett says.

1997 Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva ($20)
The Antinori family is a Tuscan institution, and the 1997 vintage is one of the region's finest in years, says Gett. Chianti gets its name from the eponymous subregion of Tuscany. "Riserva" means the wine has been aged for a minimum of two years, yielding a flavor that knocks the label off the Chianti at your neighborhood Italian joint. Flavor notes include cherry liqueur and black currant.

Dei 1997 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($26)
Montepulciano is southeast of Chianti. Like its better-known neighbor, Montepulciano relies heavily on the Sangiovese grape, known for its tart cherry taste. The wine critic Robert Parker-by virtually all accounts the world's best nose-has called the Dei Vino Nobile "gorgeously delicious." Dark ruby colored with the taste of jammy black cherries.

Monsanto 1997 Nemo ($40)
A Tuscan Cabernet Sauvignon, luxurious, with full-bodied, velvety tannins (compounds from grape bits that make it through the presses and add body to wine). Flavor notes include currants, fresh berries, and dried fruit.

Argiano 1995 Brunello di Montalcino ($50)
The Montalcino region, south of Chianti, produces a more intense wine, which also takes longer to reach full maturity. This one combines a touch of sweetness with a dense, complex quality that makes it perfect with, say, grilled steak.

Chardonnays
For white wines, forget the region and concentrate on the grape, says Gett. For starters, he advises, focus on the king of the varietals: Chardonnay. The grape is not just a perennial crowd pleaser, it's also a member of wine royalty, one of the oldest and most often used grapes in history. Although it originated in France (producing white Burgundy wines), Chardonnay is now planted all over the world and often casked in an oak barrel, which gives it a smoky tone.

Chateau Reynella 2000 ($14)
One of Gett's favorite values from Australia, a country that has won widespread praise in recent years for upping its output of world-class vino. Château Reynella is a perennially excellent producer. The 2000 vintage displays rich melon flavors with a nutty oak characteristic.

Madfish 2000 ($18)
Another Australian beauty and one of the few Chardonnays not aged in oak. That allows the fruit-pineapple, orange, and other bold citrus fruits- to shine through.

Saint Veran 1999 Vieilles Vignes Maison Rijckaert ($20)
Saint Veran boasts the ultimate Chardonnay pedigree: It hails from the grape's original stamping ground in Burgundy. As befits such a noble heritage, Saint Véran is characterized by richly concentrated flavors-apples and pears among them-but its medium body keeps it from being too dense.

Jermann 1999 Dreams ($75)
The additional money buys additional complexity. Unlike high-end Californian Chardonnays, which can be off-puttingly complex, Jermann Dreams, an Italian chard, is understated and subtle. It includes notes of apple, honey, and spring flowers, with a strikingly long finish.

Value Bottles

Naturally, you'll want some wines for everyday consumption. Here, Gett offers affordable, quality bottles featuring an array of regions and styles.

Stella Pinot Grigio 2000 ($8)
Most Pinot Grigios are undistinguished and overpriced, says Gett. That said, the crisp white style can be tasty on a hot evening with sautéed shrimp or seared scallops. The Stella Pinot is light-bodied and deliciously simple.

Mas de Guiot 2000 ($10)
This juicy, lip-smacking red from France's Rhône Valley is made from a blend of Grenache and Syrah grapes. Great for ribs. And for kissing.

Etim 1999 ($12)
This Spanish red made primarily from Grenache grapes tastes like a good Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet its relatively short body and its "outstanding ripeness" and "impressive purity," as Parker puts it, give it a flavor all its own. It matches well with a sirloin steak or other rich meats.

Abadia Retuerta Rivola 1999 ($13)
Like Merlot, this Spanish red is medium-bodied and easy to drink. Unlike Merlot, it is neither overpriced nor overhyped. Flavor notes include black cherry and currant.

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc 2000 ($15)
Sauvignon Blanc is becoming increasingly popular as white wine drinkers move beyond Chardonnay, and no country is producing this crisp, dry style more successfully than New Zealand. This Kiwi offering is especially lively, with flavors of green apple and citrus. Best with a goat cheese-frisée salad-or goat cheese anything.

Leasingham Bin 61 1998 ($18)
Perhaps Gett has seen Crocodile Dundee one too many times. Once again, he turns to Australia. This time, his selection is a Shiraz-a style generally known for its deep color and full body. The Leasingham, says Gett, is "round and sexy" with a hint of blackberry and other fruit.

Splurges

Want to really impress that client or boss? Definitely woo that date? These are the ultimate tools for the job.

Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion 1998 ($43)
Bordeaux is primarily known for its red wines, but this white from the Graves district is not to be missed, says Gett. Blending Semellion and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, it's dominated by white peach flavors with remarkable depth and complexity.

Chateau Pontet-Canet 1994 ($60)
A classic wine from the Pauillac commune in the Bordeaux region, home of the famed Lafite-Rothschild. Robert Parker has called the '94 vintage from this old-style château "exceptionally impressive."

Paxton 1998 Shiraz ($60)
A spicy Australian red with chocolate overtones. Take it to the in-laws' for Thanksgiving, says Gett.

Sauzet 1999 Puligny-Montrachet ($60)
With flavor notes ranging from flowers to minerals, this white from Burgundy is "harmonious and elegant," says Gett. "Satin-textured," adds Parker. In other words, pure luxury.

Chateau Pichon Lalande 1994 ($90)
Another classic from Pauillac. This exceptionally complex and rich red combines Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes. The flavors-black cherry and currant mixed with notes of mocha, smoke, and toast-unfold memorably on the tongue.

J.L. Chave 1997 Hermitage Blanc ($100)
Hermitage wines are made from Syrah grapes in France's Rhône Valley. "Extremely rich, thickly textured honeyed wine with notes of flowers, fino sherry, honeysuckle, and butter," Parker has said. Great to drink now, jaw-dropping in 20 years.

Antinori 1998 Guado Al Tasso ($105)
One of the famed "Super Tuscans," which blend the region's traditional grapes with rich Cabernet fruit. Gett says this wine may be one of the superest Super Tuscans ever. He finds black fruit, cassis, and sweet leather. You'll find heaven.

Sparkling Wines

Gett is big on the bubbly. And you don't have to save it for a celebration, either. Gett recommends sparkling wine as a primo aperitif-he also touts it as an accompaniment to Chinese food (hey, he's the expert). Incidentally: While the name champagne is synonymous with sparkling wine, Champagne is, in fact, a region in northern France. Calling sparkling wines from elsewhere "champagne" is technically incorrect and sure to enrage a Frenchman.

Marques de Gelida ($9)
Never mind the price. This Spaniard from the Cava region-earthy with a luscious honeydew character-has nothing to do with Asti Spumante. The best bang for your sparkling-wine buck.

Gobillard Brut Grande Réserve NV ($30)
A true champagne (it's made in the same village as Dom Pérignon). The NV stands for "nonvintage," which means the wine is made from a blend of grapes (in this case, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc) from a number of vintages, allowing Gobillard to produce a consistently crisp, nutty offering year after year.

1988 Pol Roger Brut Chardonnay ($60)
Another true champagne, this one boasts a "masterful structure," says Gett, featuring sparkling apples with hints of caramel. Not just authentic-top-of-the-line authentic.

Buying It
Most of the wines noted on this list are available at upscale wine shops. If you can't find one at your local wine store, ask the proprietor to make a special order, or try wine.com. All prices are approximate and subject to variation.

Storing It
Once you buy all of this swanky wine, make sure you store it correctly. Any consistently cool, dark place can make a fine ersatz wine cellar. Be sure to store the bottles on their sides, so the corks don't dry out.