Three classic getaways in a land of 250,000 lakes

Its northernmost point shares the same latitude as Sweden while its southernmost tip lies with the northernmost point of California. From east to west, it spans half the width of the continental United States. They say fully one-third of this land carved by ancient glaciers is covered by fresh water.

It's Ontario, a Canadian province located in the middle of the continent that surely has more waterfront than any set of boundaries on the Atlantic or Pacific oceans.


Canoeing on these lakes and rivers is a virtual rite of passage for Ontario natives. Some of the world's first summer camps for kids began in these parts. And some resorts here have been attracting families for six and seven generations.

Some friends and I gathered for a long weekend to dip our toes into some of these waters.

We rendezvoused in Toronto, whose name derives from the Huron First Nations' word for "meeting place." The name couldn't be more appropriate since Toronto is Canada's most populous city with nearly 5 million people, as well as one of the world's most culturally diverse cities, with more than 100 ethnicities represented.

Such a rich stew of citizens makes an extremely sophisticated city. There are 125 museums in greater Toronto; it's the third-largest theater center in the English-speaking world after New York and London, with more than 90 venues; and it claims so many festivals, cultural celebrations and parades that certain streets are closed more than 300 days a year.

We stayed in the landmark Fairmont Royal York, right downtown, which has been one of Toronto's most celebrated hotels since it opened in 1929 on a site that has claimed famous hotels since 1853.

Countless royals and celebrities have stayed at the Fairmont Royal York, including Queen Elizabeth II, her mother and all her children, Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett, Ella Fitzgerald, Francis Ford Coppola, George Lucas, Queen Latifah, Conan O'Brien, Matt Damon and Tiger Woods, to name just a few.

During our stay at this legendary hotel, it seemed highly appropriate, given the name and theater connections, that my friend shared an elevator with Michael York, who was in town to appear as King Arthur in a touring production of "Camelot."

More than $125 million has been lavished on this property in the last 10 years, today earning it accolades as one of the best hotels in the world. We especially appreciated the hotel's "green action plan," which began way back in 1990 to adopt environmentally friendly practices, as well as its food redistribution program, whereby it distributes untouched food every day to more than 27 charitable agencies.

We enjoyed a lovely English tea service in the afternoon at the hotel's four-star Epic restaurant and a fruity martini that night in the clubby and cozy Library Bar, rated the No. 1 martini in the city for five consecutive years by Toronto Life magazine.

The next day we drove about two hours north to the artsy lakefront town of Huntsville to experience a classic Canadian resort that has been drawing families since 1896.

The Deerhurst Resort is located in the Muskoka region, a land of 1,600 lakes. At the turn of the 20th century, steamboats brought boatloads of people from Canada and America here who built enormous "cottages" on islands in Lake Muskoka, forming what they call Millionaire's Row. Deerhurst has been part of that scene for more than 100 years now, and it offers just about every form of recreation a vacationer could want: swimming, boating, canoeing, hiking, biking, tennis, horseback riding and golf (two 18-hole courses), as well as snowshoeing, skiing, skating and dog-sledding in the winter, not to mention the Aveda Spa. We experienced two special activities at Deerhurst that we'll long remember.

We took a float plane ride over a few of those lakes and grand old cottages. Muskoka Golf Airways' Bob Barrett, a veteran pilot who used to cover Canada's Northwest Territories, picked us up on Deerhurst's dock and took us up in a six-seat 1949 DeHavilland Beaver, a Canadian-built float plane that's still considered one of the most reliable in the world. Our birds-eye view of this glorious landscape - or should we say waterscape - was a thrill.

And that night we attended "Canada Rocks," the latest version of a live song-and-dance show that has been part of Deerhurst's history for decades. This kind of local revue usually leaves us tired and bored, but not this time. The show was downright electrifying as its eight-person team of polished singers and fantastic dancers covered music created by Canadians, from Bryan Adams, Michael Buble, Joni Mitchell and the K-Os to Shania Twain. In fact, Twain starred on the Deerhurst stage for three years some 20 years ago, honing her talent for the big time.

We capped our stay at Deerhurst with marvelous meals. Chef Rory Golden is one of the founding members of Savour Muskoka, a regional culinary trail that highlights such homegrown ingredients as maple syrup, honey, trout and cranberries, all accompanied by world-class Ontario wines.

Finally, we found The Inn at Manitou, a splendid five-star resort on Lake Manitouwabing that's a member of the exceptional Relais & Chateaux family of inns and restaurants. It's about 150 miles north of Toronto in McKellar and is open only from May through October.

Sheila Wise and her husband started this getaway in 1959 as a summer camp. In the 1970s, it grew to become a famous tennis academy - Tennis magazine has rated it several times among the top five tennis resorts in North America. And in 2006, its neighbor, The Ridge at Manitou Golf Club, where playing privileges are offered, was named the best new golf course by two leading golf publications in Ontario. Today, Sheila is joined by her daughter, Jordanna Lipson, in overseeing a charming and intimate retreat.

We were there to indulge in stimulating spa treatments and gastronomic cuisine, while enjoying gorgeous lakefront suites complete with private saunas in our bathrooms and wood-burning fireplaces in our sitting rooms.

That land of 250,000 lakes will likely keep beckoning us for the next century or so.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: The Toronto International Airport is serviced by major worldwide carriers. Be advised that U.S. residents now need a passport to enter Canada.

Staying there: The Fairmont Royal York, 100 Front St. West, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5J 1E3; 416-368-2511; www.fairmont.com; 1,365 rooms; rates begin at $189.

The Deerhurst Resort, 1235 Deerhurst Dr., Huntsville, Ontario, Canada P1H 2E8; 705-789-6411; www.deerhurstresort.com; 415 rooms; rates begin at $200.

The Inn at Manitou, McKellar Center Road, McKellar, Ontario P0G 1C0;
800-571-8818; www.manitou-online.com; 34 rooms; rates begin at $260.

Priscilla Lister is a freelance travel writer.

© Copley News Service