Berlin … the once and future international film capital
by Kathi Diamant
MOVIE MADNESS - Flanked by mirrors and screens, a narrow walkway winds through two floors of the Film Museum Berlin at Potsdamer Platz, giving the visitor the feeling of being in a film projector, winding between the reels. CNS Photo by Hans Scherhaufer.
It was stunning - an indelible image of peace, beauty and quietude, a sharp contrast to the memory of what had once been a no-man's land, a ravaged city of bombed buildings and destroyed squares.
It's only one of many unforgettable images of Berlin imprinted on my psyche, although most of the others have come from movies, photographs and newsreels. Since film was introduced here more than a century ago, filmmakers have been drawn to Berlin, their imaginations fired by the city's creative energy, tragic history and dramatic architecture.
From "The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari" to "The Blue Angel" to "Wings of Desire" to, most recently, "V for Vendetta" filmed at Babelsberg Studios, images of Berlin have been used as a backdrop for many films, sometimes with the city itself morphing into one of the story's characters.
Until many of Germany's film actors, directors, writers and producers were forced to leave Germany in the 1930s during the rise of national socialism, Berlin was one of the most exciting film centers in the world. Many fled, including director Billy Wilder and a relatively unknown Marlene Dietrich, going to Hollywood as exiles.
But now, in the frozen midst of winter, with an avalanche of new images about to be revealed at the city's largest single cultural event, film industry professionals poured into Berlin from around the world, joined by an increasing number of Hollywood stars. George Clooney, Heath Ledger and Philip Seymour Hoffman were a few who braved the icy cold to participate in the first major film festival of 2006.
With some 360 world-premiere films shown during 10 days and more than 180,000 tickets sold, the Berlinale is considered, along with Cannes and Venice, as one of the top three film festivals in the world.
FILM MUSEUM BERLIN
To see some of the greatest images of all time, go to the Film Museum Berlin. Opened in 2001, this treasure of a museum occupies three floors of the Sony Center, celebrating the art and history of film in Berlin. It tells the story of German and world cinema, and of early Berlin stars and film craft. Highlights are exhibits on the making of "Metropolis" and the futuristic fantasy films of Ray Harryhausen and George Lucas. In the first room, "Divas and Pioneers," the focus is on the first films ever seen in Germany in 1895. The journey ends 12 rooms later, in outer space, with a collection of original "Star Wars" costumes.
The exhibits are highly visual and experiential, giving the visitor the feeling at times of actually being in a film, or perhaps inside the projector. The curving, winding walkway resembles a film strip suspended between the reels, with mirrors above, below and all around, reflecting several screens with famous early stars, replaying classic scenes.
When enigmatic film legend Dietrich died in Paris in 1992, her estate's staggering compilation of hundreds of thousands of documents, as well as more than 3,000 costumes, was given by her daughter to the Foundation for German Cinema and returned to Berlin. Three rooms are dedicated to this astounding collection of personal items, private photographs and a mouthwatering selection of her most famous and fabulous costumes. Letters from her lovers, famous and infamous, men and women, reveal a fascinating insight into a film star who became a living myth.
DEDICATED TO DIETRICH - One of three rooms dedicated to the estate of Hollywood and Berlin film legend Marlene Dietrich, filled with her most stunning costumes and film clips with her wearing them. CNS Photo by Hans Scherhaufer.
The permanent exhibit begins on the third floor and winds down through to the second floor, where it takes a weird turn. The last two rooms, entitled "Artificial Worlds," explore the technical wonders of animation, fantasy and special effects. On the first floor, don't miss the temporary exhibit that changes seasonally, Billy Wilder's Cafe and, for the true film student, an online center with electronic catalogs of the collection and the library, bibliographies and film reference books. The fifth floor of the film library offers researchers almost 70,0000 items, including books, catalogs, periodicals, film scripts and an extensive press archive.
IF YOU GO
Berlinale: The 57th Berlinale runs Feb. 9-19, 2007, at venues all over the city. In 2006, 186,000 public tickets were sold for 360 films shown in 1,115 screenings. The best place to spot celebrities is at the Grand Hyatt Berlin at Potsdamer Platz, where the press conferences are held and where many of the stars stay. The Vox restaurant bar is not only considered one of the best hotel bars in Berlin, it is the ideal spot to see amazing sights such as Kate Blanchard, Will Smith, Nicolas Cage and Madonna sharing sushi with Grace Jones. Web site is www.berlinale.de.
Film Museum Berlin: Time travel through the history of German film, with Marlene Dietrich heirlooms on display at the Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz. Closed on Monday. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday until 8 p.m. Admission: adults $7.25, senior $4.85, children $3, families $17. Guided tours are offered on the first Thursday of each month at 6 p.m., Saturday at 4 p.m. and Sunday at 2 p.m. For more information, visit www.filmmuseum-berlin.de.
FilmPark Babelsberg: A working studio, live shows, stunts, film techniques and original sets can be seen up close in the legendary Babelsberg studio complex, near Potsdam. Open Easter to Halloween daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m. For more information, visit www.filmpark.de.
WHERE TO STAY:
Grand Hyatt Berlin: Overlooking Marlene-Dietrich-Platz at Potsdamer Platz, in the new heart of Berlin. Busily racking up Best Hotel in Germany honors, the Grand Hyatt has become the place to see and be seen during Berlinale. Across the street from Sony Center and the Film Museum, the five-star hotel offers standard rooms beginning at $285. For more information, call 800-233-1234 or visit www.hyatt.com.
Honigmond Hotel: At the northern end of Friedrichstrasse, the three-star Honigmond Hotel is a great value in a central location in Mitte on a quiet side street. Built in 1894 and extensively restored in 2000, the modestly priced 24-room hotel features original French balconies, crown moldings and cedar plank floors, a cozy lobby with fireplace and low-rate phones to each guest upon request. Prices start at $72 single, $95 double, including breakfast. No credit cards accepted. 12 Tieckstrasse; 011-49-30-2844-5577; www.honigmond-berlin.de.
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