Switzerland's yodelfest the biggest hoot of summer festivals
by John Blanchette
READY TO YODEL - The 26th Yodelfest, Switzerland's international yodeling festival, attracted more than 200,000 people during its three-day run. Revelers at the Yodelfest dress in traditional costumes. CNS Photo by John Blanchette.
A country with over 400 museums, Switzerland loves its artists and even puts their profiles on Swiss Francs, rather than its politicians.
During my brief visit, the new Paul Klee Center, honoring the country's greatest artist, opened in the suburbs of Bern to great critical acclaim. The Kunstmuseum had organized the largest collection of avant-garde Chinese contemporary art ever assembled - Yoko Ono was featured at one of the museums in Zurich, dadaist art at another and the new Museum of Modern Art in Lucerne opened, a spectacular waterfront structure.
But one of the finest moments was at the Rosengart Museum in Lucerne and a memorable meeting with the legendary and vibrant 73-year-old Angela Rosengart. She posed five times for Picasso and had over 50 of his paintings in her collection and nearly 100 Klees. Her simple arrangement of his smaller works was as impressive as the vast display at the Paul Klee Center.
Rosengart's father was an art agent who befriended many of the great painters of the 20th century. He brought her into the business at age of 17, and she continued to work intimately with them.
PUBLIC PERFORMANCE - Throughout the medieval town of Aarau, impromptu singing and the playing of the 10-foot Alphorns created a joyous chorus. Photo by John Blanchette.
The Einstein exhibit was showing in Bern's Historical Museum. Switzerland's greatest physicist was being celebrated on the 100th anniversary of his theory of relativity.
Also taking place were the International Church Music Festival, which drew choirs from around the world; the Sherlock Holmes Society was convened in Bern, with hundreds haunting the city dressed as characters from the books; and the new Stade de Suisse, a solar-powered sports and cultural events stadium, was opening with a number of major events planned.
But all this paled next to my favorite festival, the 26th Yodelfest, Switzerland's international yodeling festival - what a hoot!
Over 200,000 attended the three-day festival, many clad in traditional garb, in the beautiful medieval town of Aarau. It rivaled the Montreux Jazz Festival in attendance. Yodelfest attracted groups from as far away as America, Canada, New Zealand and Australia to celebrate Swiss culture.
Ten thousand yodelers and 500 alphorn players were gathered together. Even the president of Switzerland, Samuel Schmid, road in the parade. Throughout the town the streets were alive with the sound of music - impromptu singing and the playing of the 10-foot horns created a joyous chorus of modulating tones as enthusiasts tooted and yodeled their hearts away while ingesting huge quantities of roasted sausages and cold Swiss beer. What a festival!
POSED FOR PICASSO - Angela Rosengart, 73, posed five times for Picasso. Her father was an art agent who brought her into the business at 17. Her extensive collection includes more than 50 works by Picasso and nearly 100 by Paul Klee, considered Switzerland's greatest artist. Angela purchased this drawing by Picasso when she was just 7. CNS Photo by John Blanchette.
Just north of Aarau is Zurich, the leading financial city in Switzerland. Like most of the great Swiss cities it was built next to a large lake, created and crowned by the Alps. The views are spectacular in Lucerne, Geneva, Lugano, Neuchatel, Montreux and Zurich, and in each city you should take the ferry around the lake and enjoy the vistas. This is Switzerland's special treasure.
In Zurich there is extra incentive for taking a ferry ride. Its second stop is home to the Lindt Chocolate Factory. Take your sweet time in this town. Also don't miss the flea market on Sunday across from the pier. Thousands of vendors sell everything from cuckoo clocks to Persian rugs and antique cut glass at phenomenal bargain prices.
Bern and Basal were settled on rivers. Basal fronts the Rhine between Germany and France. It is a highly cultured city with 33 museums and the finest university in Switzerland.
From the rose gardens on a hill above Bern you'll find the loveliest view of the city and the fast-flowing Aare that encircles it, a pristine Alpine flow that attracts swimmers in the summer and offers great riverside dining opportunities.
Two of the best riverside restaurants are Fahri, open May through August, and Schwellenmatteli, located next to the Aare and under the Kirchenfeld Bridge. Gurten Restaurant is set in a park overlooking the valley, reachable by a tram and offering great views. And you must try the fondue at Harmonie restaurant. Bern also produces Egger, my favorite Swiss beer.
TRIBUTE TO AN ARTIST - A country with more than 400 museums, Switzerland loves its artists and even puts their profiles on Swiss francs, rather than its politicians. Shown here is the new Paul Klee center, honoring the country's greatest artist. CNS Photo by John Blanchette.
Zurich boasts the best bratwurst restaurant in Switzerland. Get in line at the Vorderer Sternen Grill and watch for Tina Turner, a regular.
One of Zurich's oldest restaurants, Oepfelchammer, has been serving traditional foods since the 1700s. You can get free wine and a chance to etch your name on the bar if you climb up into the rafters and drink a full glass upside down. Be smart and do it early.
Opened in 1925, the Kronehhalle was a favorite for artists and writers from James Joyce and Thomas Mann to Giacometti, Chagall and Miro. The walls are full of art from the period. It's as much a gallery as a restaurant.
In Lucerne the Montana Hotel restaurant, perched in the hills above the lake and facing the Alps, offers one of the greatest dining views in the world. Take the tram and your camera. Reservations are necessary.
IF YOU GO
You can rent a car in Switzerland, but a better and less expensive option might be the Swiss Pass (about $200 for an eight-day pass), which allows you to travel on all the public trains, buses, streetcars and ferries (and you wont have to pay $5 a gallon for gas in addition to rental fees).
Hotel suggestions include Sternen Muri, a country inn outside of Bern; Hotel zum Stochen in Zurich, an elegant riverfront hotel with a magnificent view of the lake; the Radisson in Basel; and Hermitage in Lucerne, a lakeside hotel with patio dining featuring spectacular views of the Alps.
The Swiss Tourist Office, www.myswitzerland.com, provides comprehensive brochures on the festivals and local events, restaurants, housing in all price ranges, maps and contact information.
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