ALL TO YOURSELF - New Zealand's Stewart Island is 674 isolated square miles of land. Located further south than the rest of New Zealand, it is cooler and damper. It is said that in New Zealand you can experience all four seasons in one day; on Stewart Island it can happen in an hour. CNS Photo by Tourism New Zealand. On orders to stay close, we waddled in muted tandem behind guide Peter Smith as he inched us to within 20 feet. Trying not to intrude upon her late-night supper, we were star-struck by this brown dumpling of a bird, head bobbing up and down, its long beak darting in and out of the sand single-mindedly nibbling on spiders, berries and crustaceans. Stewart Island, 674 isolated square miles of land to the south of South Island that very few New Zealanders visit, much less anyone else, is the only place in New Zealand where you can spot kiwis, the native bird that few natives ever see. According to Wendy Hallett, owner of the Greenvale B&B where we stayed, many people first book a kiwi-spotting tour with Smith, then book their trip to New Zealand and Stewart Island. HITTING THE TRAIL - While there are only 18 miles of road on Stewart Island, there are 120 miles of walking trails, called tracks. You can choose from a 15-minute stroll through the bush, a three-hour hike or a 10-day trek. CNS Photo by Tourism New Zealand. But there are many reasons to visit Stewart Island other than the kiwi. Alternately described as isolated, insular, undeveloped, natural and wild, Stewart Island beckons in a way few modern destinations do. The downside? All the things that make it so appealing as a destination (unless, of course, you're looking for luxury resorts and chic nightclubs) might themselves be ultimately destroyed by those to whom it so appeals. Hopefully its inaccessibility - if the flights or ferry can't travel because of the weather, neither can the tourists - and its uber-emphasis on conservation can preserve it against the expected onslaught. There is a very lived-on, lived-in feel about the island; everyday life is happening here, albeit probably not your everyday life. As one of the waitresses at the Just Cafe noted: "We have no banks, no doctors, no T-shirt shops (not literally true, but more on that later) and no stress." Related Article Get a taste of island life in New Zealand WAIHEKE ISLAND, AUCKLAND, New Zealand - Some of the locals on Waiheke Island tell the story of how tennis star Martina Navratilova stood up in the Te Whau Vineyard restaurant and proclaimed that she had just had the best meal in three years. She was particularly won over by the olive oil, and so she was taken .... Two of the world's best: Visiting the highlights of Australia and New Zealand New Zealand is such a pleasant and lovely land with so many plusses and next to no minuses. No snakes. No poisonous insects or plants. No dangerous wildlife. .... Apple�s new GC strikes it rich Apple's new GC strikes it richNew University of California GCErie Indemnity GC to retireTachiki joins the Metropolitan Water District as GCU.S. Steel appoints Garraux as GCJohn Longwell joins infoUSA as GC .... Ask anyone how many people live in town, and you might hear something like, "Well, 380 at last count - no, wait - Annie just gave birth to the twins and Rupert died last week, so I guess that makes 381." And that number remained constant despite several efforts on my part to find an alternate answer. NEW ZEALAND NATIVE - Stewart Island is the only place in New Zealand where you can spot kiwis, the native bird that few natives ever see. CNS Photo by Tourism New Zealand. Eighty-five percent of Stewart Island was designated in 2002 as Rakiura National Park, making it the most recent addition to New Zealand's vast string of national parks. While there are only 18 miles of road on the island, there are 120 miles of walking trails (called tracks), ranging from a 15-minute stroll through the bush to a three-hour hike to a 10-day trek. Basically there are two ways to get around: by boat and on foot. You have to love a place that has more water taxis than land ones. A favorite hike was the Maori Beach Track, a 15-minute water taxi ride from downtown - which, by the way, covers about a one-block area. Captain Ian, a sixth-generation islander, carried me effortlessly across the slippery, moss-covered log he parked the water cab against. Alternately walking through bush so thick as to be impenetrable or hugging the craggy cliff overlooking the sea, we were bombarded by a new form of surround sound: the thrashing of waves crashing below and the concert cries of birds overhead. The varying vocals from tuis, bellbirds, kakas and kakarikas were reminiscent of the array of voices one hears in a noisy restaurant: Sometimes individual cries dominated, other times a general din prevailed. Then suddenly the birds were vying for attention once again with the breaking waves. We heard the water before we saw it, as the expanse of coastline made yet another appearance. HALFMOON BAY - The residents of Stewart Island order their groceries and other supplies not available at the local stores from South Island. Supplies are delivered and picked up here at the Halfmoon Bay waterfront. CNS Photo by Tourism New Zealand. The most natural destination upon our return to town was the Seven Seas, the only bar in the only hotel on the island. This gives "local bar" a whole new meaning. Stocking-cap-clad men, just off their fishing boats, with long beards and high boots best each other at billiards and darts. The smoke-filled room overflows with men and women drinking with gusto, laughing over town gossip or bemoaning the latest catch. This is not a place that serves a lot of light beer. What it does serve is good food in ample portions, the fish in the fish 'n' chips just about the flakiest I've had, and the fries were crisp and tasty. The other must-do activity - like the calling of the kiwi - is to board another water taxi for a visit to Ulva Island. "This is the forest primeval, the murmuring pines and the hemlocks," begins Walt Whitman's famous poem "Evangeline." He also could have been describing Ulva Island, an untouched ("unmodified" is the technical term), predator-free, primitive slice of New Zealand the way it once was. And that very nature of the island makes it an unparalleled sanctuary for birds, trees and plants that might otherwise be extinct. The hardwood podacorp forest, literally of pre-historic ancestry, also houses species of plants 350 million years old. Rare birds such as the fernbird, saddleback, rifleman and yellowhead roam the woods with impunity. And the inhabitants are not the only things special about Ulva Island; there's also Ulva Amos, another sixth-generation Stewart Islander whose breadth and scope of knowledge covers every twig, branch and feather found on Ulva Island. The similarity in names may be coincidental, but it's one hell of a marketing tool. She conducts half- and full-day tours of the island, communicating with the trees and the birds in very personal, intimate terms, distinguishing between every caw, chirp, click, creak, twill or whistle emanating from the treetops. One of my tour companions likened the sounds to an "avian symphony." "If I could get them organized, I could take them on tour," my musically inclined friend observed. Back on the mainland, a stop at the Ship 'n' Shore general store provides another insight into island living. This is the place to pick up groceries, hardware, beer and wine, household goods, fishing and hunting equipment and videos. Videos? But for major food shopping, residents are dependent upon the supermarket in Invercargill, South Island (the real mainland). They pick up their orders at the Halfmoon Bay waterfront every Wednesday evening. Next to Ship 'n' Shore is the previously-alluded-to T-shirt shop - although the designation is really a misnomer. Dil Belworthy, like so many other islanders, was a fisherman by trade and, like so many of his compatriots, several years ago "saw the writing on the wall." As he tells the story, "I was drinking with some mates one day and we were discussing how the fishing industry was going downhill, and how we saw tourism on the horizon." With tourists as their new prey, the question became: "How do you catch a tourist?" The answer: "You sell them a T-shirt!" So Dil and his wife, Cath, started hand-printing their art-shirts on their kitchen table in 1997, reproducing native Maori symbols and traditional images. Now, their Glowing Sky Studio sells these individually designed and produced wearable works of beauty for $35 per non-T-shirt T-shirt. For sure, Stewart Island as a whole has learned well how to catch tourists, but it wouldn't surprise me if the islanders have mixed emotions about just how successful they want their new venture to be. IF YOU GO For more information, visit www.stewartisland.co.nz. When to go: November to March - keep in mind their seasons are reversed. Because Stewart Island is further south (away from the equator) than the rest of New Zealand, it is also cooler and damper. It is said that in New Zealand you can experience all four seasons in a day; on Stewart Island, it can happen in an hour. As usual, think layers. How to get there: Several 15-minute flights from Invercargill, South Island, to Halfmoon Bay, Stewart Island, in a small plane are scheduled throughout the day, every day, weather permitting. Two one-hour ferry crossings are also available daily. Where to stay: Hotel accommodations range from the more "luxurious" (Stewart Island-style) at the Stewart Island Lodge (summer rates range from $276, double occupancy per night with breakfast, to $380 with breakfast and dinner) to more basic rooms at the South Sea Hotel ($64-$96), but most island lodgings are small cottages and B&Bs. Greenvale B&B, where we stayed, with its large, comfy living room overlooking Halfmoon Bay, is full of little surprises: biscuits, candies and beverages in the room; cards and books on the shelf; and little hand-knit booties by the front door to put on after a hike. A delicious farm-style breakfast beckons every morning ($178, double, per night). Where to eat: The options aren't plentiful. Just Cafe is a good place to catch a light breakfast or lunch; Stewart Island's idea of fine dining is limited to the Church Hill Restaurant and Stewart Island Lodge; but the best fish 'n' chips outside England are the province of the South Sea Pub. Fyllis Hockman is a freelance travel writer. © Copley News Service

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