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Some visitors to Wales' castles never leave
by Kathryn Lemmon
by Kathryn Lemmon
The most jaw-dropping castles resulted from Edward I's decision in 1276 to treat the Welsh princes as rebels. He constructed a series of linked fortresses meant to control this rowdy bunch once and for all. The northern castles are known collectively as the Iron Ring. CONWY CASTLE: GRIEF IN THE STONES Of the seven castles I visited in Wales, Conwy tops my list. This colossus, eerily lit up against the night sky, was a sight to set a castle lovers heart aflutter, namely mine. Our stay was at the Castle Hotel, located on the site of an ancient abbey, no doubt haunted like the castle itself. There's been a hotel at this spot since the 14th century and the lodging is just steps from the castle. Conwy is home to at least one ghostly apparition, that of a bereaved husband. As the story goes, the gentleman of the castle was away for a long time. When the date of his return arrived, his beloved wife and child climbed the lookout tower to await his approach. With darkness descending and no sign of him, the two started back down. As fate would have it, the woman and child lost their footing and tumbled down the stairs. They were taken to a room known as the lantern room and a doctor was summoned. Try as he might, the doctor could do nothing to save them. Fearing the anger of the lord upon his return, a servant locked the doctor and the dying family within the room. When the man did get home, he found the bodies of his wife and child, though not the doctor, who was never seen again. The widower eventually went mad with grief and passed away. It's reported his ghost continues to search for the missing doctor.
Even castle aficionados would admit this fortification is impressive. She was built not only as a military stronghold, but as a seat of government and a royal palace. What we see today is to a certain extent the result of a major restoration in the 19th century. It was here in 1969 that young Charles officially became Prince of Wales. For the Welsh, the investiture was a proud moment, one of the rare times the world focused on this remote place. Inside the castle, an exhibit highlights the occasion. As befitting a royal residence, the ghost of this castle is no mere commoner, but a king-like figure, flitting from place to place. Could it be resolute King Edward, returning from the afterlife to fret over the rebellious Welsh or to make sure his stronghold stands? I did wonder. Apparently, the Caernarfon spirit was kind enough to pose for the camera when a Texas woman found the evidence in her vacation snapshots. The photo reveals a transparent figure dressed in a long, blue robe and holding a scepter.
Caerphilly is a sprawling bastion with surrounding water defenses located in the south, near Cardiff. Caerphilly stands out, thanks to her leaning tower. The modern town is all around the castle and I enjoyed a leisurely slice of pizza while staring at it. The castle held my eyes in a mesmerizing fashion. I recall the waitress even had to poke me to get my attention. The haunting of Caerphilly stems from a none-too-secret love affair and a cuckolded husband. In a fit of jealousy, Red Gilbert de Clare, builder and owner of the castle, murdered his wife's lover. Red Gilbert acquired this colorful name thanks to his flaming red hair, which matched his temperament. When wife Alice heard of the deed, she dropped dead on the spot and her unhappy spirit roams the ramparts of the castle. Unlike so many ethereal ladies in white, Alice is seen in a richly woven green gown and castle staff report smelling her perfume in the flag tower. GWYDIR CASTLE: MURDER NOT FORGOTTEN The current owner of Gwydir Castle graciously conducted us around his haunted home. Although somewhat less imposing than the "Big C" castles listed above, Gwydir is more intact. If it's been your wish to sleep in a haunted castle, they offer bed-and-breakfast rooms. Prince Charles paid a formal visit to Gwydir in 1998 to personally commend this couple on their dedication to restoring the castle. As you might expect, it requires truckloads of money and perseverance. While no spirits presented themselves, we had a lively encounter with four bold peacocks in the dining room. When a door is inadvertently left open, these birds see it as a clear invitation to make themselves at home. One fellow looked regal standing in the center of the antique dining table. In medieval times he might have been stuffed with onions and munched as the main course. Our host was soon racing around, waving his arms in a comical fashion, trying to shoo them back outside. Gwydir has no shortage of specters, including a ghost dog. The most notable, however is a human female presence. She's nearly always seen or felt in a long, paneled corridor, accompanied by a putrid smell. Supposedly the young woman was murdered, her body unceremoniously walled up in the corridor. That would certainly explain the odor. Castles alone are enough reason to visit Wales; they defy time and most human endeavors. But their ghost stories make the stones speak. IF YOU GO For touring North Wales, Manchester airport is a good starting and ending, more convenient than London. BMI, British Midlands is one airline option. Click on www.visitwales.com. Kathryn Lemmon is a freelance travel writer. |
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